My barn is unheated too.

Angus

> On May 8, 2016, at 1:45 PM, Alistair Bel <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> 
> Toques multiply in my barn
> 
> Alistair 
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 8, 2016, at 1:39 PM, Angus Gordon <birdworks@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> 
>> I have an eight foot torque multiplier in my barn...
>> 
>> Angus
>> 
>>> On May 8, 2016, at 9:46 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
>>> 
>>>      I've occasionally wondered why one of our Van'Fam' Fabricators (Alistair or ?) hasn't come up with a
>>> 
>>> Torque Multiplier Tool, Or an A Mod to the Old one for the Bug, that will work on a Vanagon ~
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 8 May , 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Any time you are tryingbto remove a large nut - heck, even some smaller nut
>>>> or bolts - some extra precautions are in order. Dennis covered his pretty
>>>> well. For myself, if I can get at it,  throw a rag over the work. You can
>>>> never tell when a piece of shrapnel will come flying off.
>>>> 
>>>> As for large bolts or nuts such as the axle nut they really ought to be
>>>> covered. In industry such items can be huge an subject to enormous torque.
>>>> When  I worked in the aviation industry, (I'm old enough now to feel like
>>>> the first mechanic to work on the Wright Brothers flying machine) we used
>>>> what was called a Sweeney Wrench to tighten and loosen the nut that held
>>>> four blade propellers on the shaft. Some of those went to 2400 foot lbs.
>>>> The Sweeny could deliver, as it was a geared, chain drive apparatus with
>>>> splines inside to hold onto the shaft while it turned that nut up to torque
>>>> - or loosened it. Sometimes  I think we  need one of those when it comes to
>>>> having to deal with the nut and stub axle on our Vanagons. There's no way
>>>> that nut won't turn with a Sweeny!!
>>>> 
>>>> John
>>>>> On May 8, 2016 10:06, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Depending on where the jack stands were placed the weight behind them is
>>>>> already trying to lift the front off the ground. It is normal for a
>>>>> threaded fastener assembly to require much more torque to loosen then
>>>>> applied for tightening, that is part of how they work. Tension and
>>>>> friction. Rust and corrosion can make things worse. Normally, the brakes
>>>>> can be serviced without removing the hub. It only needs to be removed if
>>>>> servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the backing plate.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>>>>> Of Don Hanson
>>>>> Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2016 9:22 AM
>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>> Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
>>>>> 
>>>>> Incredibly, when I was once trying to remove the axle nut from my 84,
>>>>> after getting it all up on jackstands, etc.....
>>>>> 
>>>>> ....I got a really long cheater bar and put it onto my 3/4" drive
>>>>> breaker bar, after locking the wheel with the Ebrake.   I put my own full
>>>>> body weight (165lbs) on the end of the bar...nuthin...  Asked two of my
>>>>> friends to get on that bar with me....We lifted the front of the vanagon
>>>>> off the ground, and still didn't get that nut to budge...Bouncing on that
>>>>> breaker bar with three guys standing on it....the front wheels just bounced
>>>>> up and down....finally cut it off
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:12 AM, mike riley <mkriley1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> You can.t have too many warnings about flying debris! I had to undergo
>>>>>> eye surgery to remove a piece of steel from my cornea acquired in a
>>>>>> industrial setting with safety glasses, gogeles, and a face shield on.
>>>>>> The best way is no impact at all. Take the cotter pins out and have a
>>>>>> socket and breaker bar.  Put it on the passnger side twards the front
>>>>>> with the handle on the ground. Start the engine and slip the clutch in
>>>>>> first gear. It will come off. Alternatively cut the nut off it is
>>>>>> false economy to reuse it as the threads are most likely
>>>>>> distorted.Mike
>