This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to
hear. Thanks.

> Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.

Oooh! But...

> The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.

Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?

> Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.

That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that
ends my easy tranny removal already though.

> Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body. Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the kits.

Where though?  Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from
a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order
pistons as required when I have a look inside.

> There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the correct thickness.

Choose? I found exactly one.  Things of variable thickness in the
manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the
thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find
those?

> Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.

ugh.  I will look.

K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
end.

> > My first question, to the amazing people of this group:  Can I remove ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft can just slip on and off.