No choice, then.  I didn't want to. The Torque converter, the
differential, and the CV joints are all things I wanted to learn about
at a later date. I guess I need grease for the CV joints (may as well
do the wheel side as well, right?), got the final drive seals already
(and the pan gasket, though do I need that?), gear oil, what else?
Torque converter to final drive seal, flanges for the cv, governer
seal?... what?

On 5/21/16, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
> I think you really should pull the whole unit.  It's tricky enough puting
> the two sections back together when they are both on the shop floor.  It
> would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle, especially for
> someone unfamiliar with the task.
>   Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal where it
> receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway.
>
> You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever wood
> assembly is needed to let it hold the unit.  A 2X4 across the engine
> compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the back (front?) of
> the engine and lower it a little when needed.  When you are under there
> steadying things as the unit separates from the engine you need a helper to
> control the jack.
>
> Great fun.
> Larry A.
>
>
> On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to
>> hear. Thanks.
>>
>> > Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
>>
>> Oooh! But...
>>
>> > The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
>>
>> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
>> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
>>
>> > Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque
>> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
>>
>> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that
>> ends my easy tranny removal already though.
>>
>> > Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body.
>> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the
>> kits.
>>
>> Where though?  Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from
>> a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order
>> pistons as required when I have a look inside.
>>
>> > There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the
>> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the
>> correct thickness.
>>
>> Choose? I found exactly one.  Things of variable thickness in the
>> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
>> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the
>> thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
>> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find
>> those?
>>
>> > Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the
>> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You
>> will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
>>
>> ugh.  I will look.
>>
>> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
>> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
>> end.
>>
>>
>> > > My first question, to the amazing people of this group:  Can I remove
>> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter
>> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft
>> can
>> just slip on and off.
>>
>

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