Very helpful info Scott.
I didn't know about the lack of hole at frame. I assume my 81 doesn't have
that.
Maybe more work than it's worth to convert to PS. But, I would install new
flexible hoses.
Good to know they would address that lack of hole issue.
Need to figure what I need for the Jetta engine in terms of pump, brackets,
interfacing hoses etc.

my concern re the bearing race is that it **might ** have a tendency to
spin on the spindle.
For sure, no. The race won't turn in the hub!   ;)

I'll try that "freeze" stuff. I've good success with Kroil penetrating
fluid though. Will drill and try a reverse tap bit am not holding my breath
and I sure don't want to render the caliper unrebuildable by screwing up
the bleed screw hole threads.

On Tuesday, June 21, 2016, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> HI ,
> re "a punch mark or twomight suffice to keep a bearing race from turning.
> "
>
> if you really mean the bearing race ..the part pressed/tapped into the hub
> ..
> that sure better NOT be turning in the hub !
>
> a great trick btw..for driving in bearing races. Take an old bearing and
> grind down the outside so it's an easy slip fit into the hub.
> Then use that as a driver to tap in the new race.
> If you really want to get fancy, weld a handle onto it.
>
> want to buy a good used bleed screw ? I save that kinda stuff.
> Lot of bother to ship such a silly little thing of course.
>
> I'd say a broken off bleed screw should be fairly easy to extract..
> just don't drill down to the sealing surface.
> I've had great luck with "Freeze" spray juice and an easy out .
>
> on retrofitting PS ..
> you'll find that in 84 VW put a notch/cut out  in the frame for the PS
> pipes to pass through ..
> on the inner frame rail ..near the filler neck area roughly ..
> fuel tank has to be out to get to that area..
>
> plus if wanting to use all original parts you need the pipes and lines
> too, not just rack and PS pump and rez.
> It would be handy to just buy the full-length hose kit that vendors sell,
> by passing that notch-in-the-frame issue.
> But yeah ..PS is nice, not that the early vans don't do pretty well
> without it.
>
> I
> On 6/21/2016 8:30 AM, Neil N wrote:
>
> Well,.....
> The bolts came off without too much effort.
> Yes I'm sure folks were dying to know this. LOL
> Point is, it's possible to remove the calipers with knuckle removed
> from the vehicle.
>
> Thankfully, the bearing race (journals?) show only minor wear, if
> that; a little corrosion "staining" at each inboard journal, some wear
> at an outer bearing journal. If needed, I'm sure a punch mark or two
> might suffice to keep a bearing race from turning.
>
> Heck. Even the large Phillips head screws at each splash guard came off easily.
>
> Sadly, a caliper bleed screw is sheared off and won't come out. I was
> planning to rebuild these caliper so myself but will leave that to the
> pros.
>
> I may install power steering if I do this swap. That'll be interesting.    ;)
>
> Neil
>
>
> On Sunday, June 19, 2016, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','musomuso@gmail.com');> wrote
>
>
>
> With the lower ball joint end of the steering knuckle mounted securely
> in a large vice,
>
>
>

--
Neil n

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