For what it is worth, I have had numerous times without leaks in my '88 WBX. 
Also I disagree with the statement about 86-92 Porsches. I have an '88 and the only time it has ever leaked has been when a seal or oil line has been faulty. At one point it was smoking on startup that one mechanic explained away as leaky valve guides, so I lived with it. The last time I took it in, a different mechanic noticed a number of leaking seals and hoses, which were replaced and now no smoking at all. A good lesson to not always believe what the mechanic tells you. 
  
I would say it is all about the condition of the parts and how well maintained the engine is - and how clean the engine compartment is kept. 
But you can get a dripless engine if you work at it. 
  
Todd 
'88 Westy 

----- Original Message -----

From: "TJ Hemrick" <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM> 
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2016 12:59:13 PM 
Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 30 Jun 2016 to 1 Jul 2016 - Special issue              (#2016-220) 

Ken, 
  I'm going to just dive in and get right to it and avoid the protracted 
history and methodology.  Even the most expensive Porsches with flat motors 
"leak".  Trust me, the materials and prep those older 911 motors (esp 
86-92) are top notch and they *still* drip.  What happens is the hot oil on 
shutdown is, as part of the lubrication of the valve gear, trapped in the 
heads.  One if not more exhaust valves will be in an open position.  That 
hot thin oil seeps its way past the valve guides, drips into the exhaust, 
collects, and eventually spills out.  Nature of the beast even when 
new(er).  Granted, certainly much much less when new/rebuilt due to tighter 
clearances, air cooled motors need a lot more clearance for thermal 
expansion.  Add some age, worn out seals, and certainly, it will find a way 
out of the heads and gaps around all the junctions of metal parts. 
Only exacerbated by a really hard drive.  Trust me, I've nailed a few early 
morning "runs" at sub-light speed in a 911 and on engine shutdown those 
things creek and pop like mad as they cool.  Water cooled heads or not, VW 
or Porsche, different beast, same story.   For me, it's a minor trade off 
for the most inherently balanced car engine design.  A drip pan is a 
required "tool" for a Porsche tech. LOL. 

TJ 

Date:    Fri, 1 Jul 2016 15:57:36 +0000 
From:    MICHAEL H <vwdash80@YAHOO.COM> 
Subject: Re: Is it reasonable to expect a rebuilt waterboxer to be bone dry 
         underneath? 

Mr. Wilford - 'Volkswagens don't leak ; they mark their spot to return to.'= 
=C2=A0 keep calm and `wagen on. everybody enjoy a safe and happy Holiday we= 
ekend ! 

      From: kenneth wilford (Van-Again) <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> 
 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 9:47 AM 
 Subject: Is it reasonable to expect a rebuilt waterboxer to be bone dry un= 
derneath? 
  =20 
I want to see what other folks are experiencing on this issue.=C2=A0 I have= 
 been 
installing rebuilt waterboxers for the past 18 years from many different 
vendors, plus I have rebuilt a number of them myself.=C2=A0 One of the thin= 
gs I 
see is that after a month or two, they all start to leak or seep oil here 
and there.=C2=A0 It is usually nothing more than a drop or two on the groun= 
d 
after the van sits overnight.=C2=A0 However I have had customers who have 
expected their engines to have no leaks, no wetness, and now spots on the 
ground after sitting.=C2=A0 I have tried to address these concerns, re-seal= 
ing 
things, etc. but I have never been successful getting a waterboxer engine 
that is completely bone dry on the bottom (oil).=C2=A0 Am I doing something 
wrong?=C2=A0 Also I have never seen a vendor's engine like Boston Bob back = 
in 
the day or AVP or GEX or other rebuilders who are unknown, that didn't have 
some leaks or seeps here and there.=C2=A0 What is a reasonable expectation = 
for a 
rebuilt waterboxer?=C2=A0 What have you experienced? 

-- 
Thanks, 
Ken Wilford 
John 3:16 
www.vanagain.com