Just reconfirmed this now. Ignition switch was on, and wasn't able to start
it. Waiting a few minutes now with ignition switch off.
On Jul 7, 2016 12:34 PM, "Fuzzy :philippe" <fuzzmeister@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yep, pointing more and more towards the coil.
>
> Also seems like keeping the ignition on makes it not start after 5m. But
> with ignition off it starts after 5min.
> On Jul 7, 2016 12:28 PM, "Roy Nicholl" <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>
>> Phillippe:
>>
>> Jim is correct - it’s one or the other.  If you are seeing no power on #4
>> to the distributor, I would suspect an over-heating/failing coil.  If you
>> are simply seeing no pulse … then the Hall sensor/sender would be suspect.
>>  I’ve had a coil fail with similar behaviour to what you are experiencing -
>> when it became too hot.   Thus far my hall sensor is fine - though I’ve
>> been told they fail more frequently than coils.
>>
>>
>>
>> > On 07-Jul-2016, at 16:11, Fuzzy :philippe <fuzzmeister@GMAIL.COM>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Definitely have power to terminal 15.
>> >
>> > Seems like waiting 5-10m allows me to restart and drive a few minutes,
>> then
>> > engine dies again.
>> >
>> > Interesting note: when engine is about to die, pressing accelerator does
>> > nothing until floored, and then I hear the engine rev up only then. And
>> at
>> > the same time engine rpm needle on dashboard is at zero and doesn't
>> move.
>> > Then engine dies.
>> >
>> > Going to try to make it home 2min at a time.
>> >
>> > I have the wrong multimeter (not precise enough).
>> >
>> > Any extra thoughts based on the above notes appreciated!
>> > On Jul 7, 2016 12:02 PM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Bad Hall sensor or bad coil. Rare coil failure but I have had several
>> with
>> > a break in the windings that will expand when hot and stop the car.
>> >
>> > Jim
>> >
>> >
>> > On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 1:55 PM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Phillip:
>> >>
>> >> Primary (#1 & #15): 0.5Ω - 0.8Ω
>> >> Secondary (#1 & #4):  2.5kΩ - 3.5kΩ or 7kΩ to 8kΩ (upper bound may be a
>> >> little higher)
>> >>
>> >> If your coil is outside theses ranges, then it may be time to get the
>> >> spare out from under the bench.
>> >>
>> >> Check to be certain you still have power to #15 when you are not
>> getting
>> >> spark.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:42, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNet.nb.ca> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Ooops …. those are kila-ohms on the secondary (HT) circuit … put your
>> >> meter into the right rage.
>> >>>
>> >>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:40, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNet.nb.ca> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Going by memory here:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Primary circuit:
>> >>>> #15 is live (low voltage side)
>> >>>> #1 is switched ground (tach signal)
>> >>>>
>> >>>> You should have 0.5 - 0.8 (or 0.9) ohms across here
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> The HT circuit is between 1 and wire to distributer (#4?):  You
>> should
>> >> measure either ~2.5 - 3.5 Ohms or ~7 - 8ohms,  depending on the
>> generation
>> >> of your coil … one is green the other grey … I cannot remember which is
>> >> which.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Make certain you disconnected the coil completely before measuring
>> >> resistance!
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:17, Fuzzy :philippe <fuzzmeister@GMAIL.COM>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Engine just died while idling in a parking lot. Zero resistance
>> > between
>> >>>>> terminals 1 and 15
>> >>>>> On Jul 7, 2016 11:03 AM, "Roy Nicholl" <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
>> wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>> Centre ignition wire …. you mean from the coil to the distributor?
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> Start working backwards … is the coil failing?  When there is no
>> >> spark …
>> >>>>>> do you have power into the coil?
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 14:58, Tyler Hardison <tyler@SERAPH-NET.NET>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> Nope, saw that message afterwards. I'll bow out. I've never seen
>> >> that.
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 10:58 AM, Fuzzy :philippe <
>> >> fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
>> >>>>>>> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>> There seems to be a lack of spark from the center ignition wire.
>> >> Does
>> >>>>>> that
>> >>>>>>>> connect with the issue you had?
>> >>>>>>>> On Jul 7, 2016 10:55 AM, "Tyler Hardison" <tyler@seraph-net.net>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> Phillippe,
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> I too had this issue.
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> The problem is likely vapor lock caused by clogged fuel filter
>> or
>> >>>>>>>>> possibly the pressure regulator.
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> Look under the van on the passenger side for the fuel filter(s).
>> >> If you
>> >>>>>>>>> have two, you can eliminate the front square filter.
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> --t
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Fuzzy :philippe <
>> >>>>>> fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
>> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> I don't post here often but I'm hoping you guys can help.
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> I have an '87 2.1L Vanagon GL
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> I drive it, and suddenly the engine stops and won't restart for
>> >> about
>> >>>>>>>>>> 10min. Then it starts and runs for a few minutes and dies
>> again.
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> Thoughts? I'm on the road with basic tools and multimeter, but
>> I
>> >>>>>> haven't
>> >>>>>>>>>> done this sort of diagnostic before. I could use a short talk
>> on
>> >> the
>> >>>>>>>>>> phone
>> >>>>>>>>>> with anyone who can help. I also have the servicing manual but
>> >> these
>> >>>>>>>>>> books
>> >>>>>>>>>> assume basic knowledge of such engines, which I don't.
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> A quick text to 415-505-0786 would be awesome!
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>> >>>>>>>>>> Philippe
>> >>>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>>
>