1. hall sender
2. pcb on the ecu
3. Ignition switch

One of those is failing.  At least, according to someone on thesamba...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=654850

On 7/2/16, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> well there ya good..
> two methods...one by Bentley/VW and one by GW that built the engine,
> plus a suggestion to add a degree or two for being a little above sea
> level.
>
> What I suggest ..is just do what the engine builders said to do, like
> the poster did,
> and just drive it a while and see how it goes.
> The way you did it was jut fine.
> a degree to two here or there at 3,000 isn't going to matter much IMO.
>
> The comment on disconnecting the Temp Sensor and setting timing at idle
> rpm is worthwhile.
>
> what I would do ...AFTER confirming that things are about right with
> GW's method ...
> and driving a week or two ..
> then I'd try the Bentley method and see if there was any difference in
> advance at 3,000 rpm.
>
> oh...while I'm here....
> on my newly installed Digifant sytsem on a 2.1 wbxr engine  ( which ran
> on stock 85 Digijet for a while ) ,
> I how have a jumpy tach on start-up and shut down.
> Happens with two different Digifant ECU's and two different distributors
> ..and one coil I tried.
>
> thoughts or suggestions invited.
>
> I can try another tach easily enough ...and other than this tach
> jumpiness at start and shut off no other symptoms.
> Runs strong ...
> even pulling  4,000 rpm in top gear going slightly uphill, and returning
> 19 mpg.
> 87 octane or premium doesn't seem to make any difference.
> Timing is zero at idle rpm, temp sensor connected .  Running very
> strongly, real pleased with it.
>
> On 7/2/2016 8:54 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>> Part of the spark plug circuit includes the current goes from the center
>> electrode to the outer ground electrode. Ground or eventually chassis
>> being a key. As such the timing light should be connected to the vehicle
>> power supply so that it is also connected to the same common as the
>> ignition system, including the spark plugs. You can easily connect the
>> timing light to a chassis ground somewhere and get power off the
>> alternator terminal. The degree delay function only works by time delay
>> versus speed and is a very crud indication or measurement. Someday I will
>> figure out why some folks think it is better this way than to follow the
>> Bentley.  The Digifant modifies the timing curve based on coolant temp so
>> part of the procedure is to disconnect the temp 2 sensor to go into a
>> default and set the timing at idle speed.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>> Dennis Jowell
>> Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 11:22 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: GOWESTY AFM no start problem
>>
>> My old timing light was D.O.D. , Had to purchase a Craftsman Sears timing
>> light Hopefully I used it correctly!
>> Here is what I did
>> GOWESTY has a template to mark the pulley at 35 degrees which I used.
>> I used an extra 12v battery connect to the timing light Warmed engine to
>> running temp.
>> Set the new "Advance Timing Light" to zero Used the onboard tach to read
>> 3000 rpm Adjusted timing to line up with the new 35 mark on the pulley.
>> My concern is that I didn't adjust the timing to far advanced so I ruin my
>> 2.2 Westy engine Any thoughts or suggestion before I drive it out for a
>> test run?
>>
>> At 3000 rpm timing is set at 35 degrees this is what GOWESTY suggests with
>> the "Advance Timing Light"
>>
>> Dennis J
>>
>>
>> Dennis Jowell
>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>> Newbury, Vermont
>>
>>
>>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:09 PM, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> good point.
>>> This reminds me ...think I read that GW specifies 35 degrees advance
>>> at
>>> 3,000 rpm for their 2.2.
>>> something like that.
>>> and is another way, besides initial timing ..of adjusting timing.
>>>
>>>> On 6/30/2016 11:49 AM, Neil N wrote:
>>>> Congrats.
>>>>
>>>> Your timing light may well be fine.
>>>>
>>>> The old Bug 12 volt bulb technique was used for static timing; get
>>>> timing close to correct so engine will at least start.
>>>> As dizzy is turned, points close/open, light goes on/off.
>>>> Once static timing set, an actual timing light is used.
>>>>
>>>> I can't speak directly to the 2.2 WBX but for the 2.1 there's the
>>>> Bentley method or, a "full advance" method; all parts remain
>>>> connected, engine is sustained to higher RPM, timing set to ~ 35º
>>>> BTDC  That spec is shown P. 28.41 in my Bentley.
>>>>
>>>> My guess is that the full advance method has been posted about here.
>>>>
>>>> Neil.
>>>>
>>>>> On 6/30/16, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hall sensor is installed, Westy starts up, which is a bonus for me.
>>>>> Now to do the timing of the WBX. I found my old timing light from
>>>>> Sears 1971 vintage I suspect it's NG.
>>>>> I'm headed down to my Sears store for a new Craftsman timing tool.
>>>>> Any suggestions on the type I should get? Not to many choices here
>>>>> where we live. Sears is a 90 miles round trip.
>>>>> It has been a long time since I timed any engine with a light. My
>>>>> several old VW  bugs I timed using a 12 volt bulb and a pair of
>>>>> alligator clips.
>>>>> Also a little confused on the process of timing the 2.2 WBX engine.
>

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