remind me what pcb means.
printed control board ?

anyway ..
it occurred to me that 84/84 tachs may be slightly different than 86 and
later tachs.
I know this from reading that the tach can be run directly from the
Subaru ECU tach pin in some Subaru conversions..
but that won't work with later tach.

I have an 86 tach to try.

On 7/2/2016 5:36 PM, C. Abney wrote:
> 1. hall sender
> 2. pcb on the ecu
> 3. Ignition switch
>
> One of those is failing.  At least, according to someone on thesamba...
>
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=654850
>
>
> On 7/2/16, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>> well there ya good..
>> two methods...one by Bentley/VW and one by GW that built the engine,
>> plus a suggestion to add a degree or two for being a little above sea
>> level.
>>
>> What I suggest ..is just do what the engine builders said to do, like
>> the poster did,
>> and just drive it a while and see how it goes.
>> The way you did it was jut fine.
>> a degree to two here or there at 3,000 isn't going to matter much IMO.
>>
>> The comment on disconnecting the Temp Sensor and setting timing at idle
>> rpm is worthwhile.
>>
>> what I would do ...AFTER confirming that things are about right with
>> GW's method ...
>> and driving a week or two ..
>> then I'd try the Bentley method and see if there was any difference in
>> advance at 3,000 rpm.
>>
>> oh...while I'm here....
>> on my newly installed Digifant sytsem on a 2.1 wbxr engine  ( which ran
>> on stock 85 Digijet for a while ) ,
>> I how have a jumpy tach on start-up and shut down.
>> Happens with two different Digifant ECU's and two different distributors
>> ..and one coil I tried.
>>
>> thoughts or suggestions invited.
>>
>> I can try another tach easily enough ...and other than this tach
>> jumpiness at start and shut off no other symptoms.
>> Runs strong ...
>> even pulling  4,000 rpm in top gear going slightly uphill, and returning
>> 19 mpg.
>> 87 octane or premium doesn't seem to make any difference.
>> Timing is zero at idle rpm, temp sensor connected .  Running very
>> strongly, real pleased with it.
>>
>> On 7/2/2016 8:54 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>>> Part of the spark plug circuit includes the current goes from the center
>>> electrode to the outer ground electrode. Ground or eventually chassis
>>> being a key. As such the timing light should be connected to the vehicle
>>> power supply so that it is also connected to the same common as the
>>> ignition system, including the spark plugs. You can easily connect the
>>> timing light to a chassis ground somewhere and get power off the
>>> alternator terminal. The degree delay function only works by time delay
>>> versus speed and is a very crud indication or measurement. Someday I will
>>> figure out why some folks think it is better this way than to follow the
>>> Bentley.  The Digifant modifies the timing curve based on coolant temp so
>>> part of the procedure is to disconnect the temp 2 sensor to go into a
>>> default and set the timing at idle speed.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Dennis Jowell
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 11:22 AM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: GOWESTY AFM no start problem
>>>
>>> My old timing light was D.O.D. , Had to purchase a Craftsman Sears timing
>>> light Hopefully I used it correctly!
>>> Here is what I did
>>> GOWESTY has a template to mark the pulley at 35 degrees which I used.
>>> I used an extra 12v battery connect to the timing light Warmed engine to
>>> running temp.
>>> Set the new "Advance Timing Light" to zero Used the onboard tach to read
>>> 3000 rpm Adjusted timing to line up with the new 35 mark on the pulley.
>>> My concern is that I didn't adjust the timing to far advanced so I ruin my
>>> 2.2 Westy engine Any thoughts or suggestion before I drive it out for a
>>> test run?
>>>
>>> At 3000 rpm timing is set at 35 degrees this is what GOWESTY suggests with
>>> the "Advance Timing Light"
>>>
>>> Dennis J
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis Jowell
>>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>>> Newbury, Vermont
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:09 PM, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> good point.
>>>> This reminds me ...think I read that GW specifies 35 degrees advance
>>>> at
>>>> 3,000 rpm for their 2.2.
>>>> something like that.
>>>> and is another way, besides initial timing ..of adjusting timing.
>>>>
>>>>> On 6/30/2016 11:49 AM, Neil N wrote:
>>>>> Congrats.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your timing light may well be fine.
>>>>>
>>>>> The old Bug 12 volt bulb technique was used for static timing; get
>>>>> timing close to correct so engine will at least start.
>>>>> As dizzy is turned, points close/open, light goes on/off.
>>>>> Once static timing set, an actual timing light is used.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can't speak directly to the 2.2 WBX but for the 2.1 there's the
>>>>> Bentley method or, a "full advance" method; all parts remain
>>>>> connected, engine is sustained to higher RPM, timing set to ~ 35º
>>>>> BTDC  That spec is shown P. 28.41 in my Bentley.
>>>>>
>>>>> My guess is that the full advance method has been posted about here.
>>>>>
>>>>> Neil.
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 6/30/16, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hall sensor is installed, Westy starts up, which is a bonus for me.
>>>>>> Now to do the timing of the WBX. I found my old timing light from
>>>>>> Sears 1971 vintage I suspect it's NG.
>>>>>> I'm headed down to my Sears store for a new Craftsman timing tool.
>>>>>> Any suggestions on the type I should get? Not to many choices here
>>>>>> where we live. Sears is a 90 miles round trip.
>>>>>> It has been a long time since I timed any engine with a light. My
>>>>>> several old VW  bugs I timed using a 12 volt bulb and a pair of
>>>>>> alligator clips.
>>>>>> Also a little confused on the process of timing the 2.2 WBX engine.
>