That's Quite Bazaar ~

On 9 Jul , 2016, at 3:22 PM, John Rodgers wrote:

> The problem I was having was that box would go all the way down flush with the socket, but when I let go it would spring back apart. Very frustrating.
> 
> John
> 
> On Jul 9, 2016 15:41, "OlRivrRat" <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
>                 @ John & Steve
> 
>         One of the 1st things I do when trying to Diag' an improper Idle RPM is to
> 
> Unplug that ControlMod', Spray the Blades & the Socket with ContactCleaner &
> 
> ReInsert the ICM back into its socket ~ All of that being done with the Socket
> 
> being Removed from its Bracket so that the whole ICM+Socket can be dealt with
> 
> outside the TailLightHole ~ I have never had 1 that would not ReseatCompletely
> 
> but HaveHad numerous that took a Considerable Amount of Force to get them in
> 
> where they should be ~ That last 1/16"' Lots of the time, Snaps In ~
> 
>                                                         ORR ~ DeanB
> 
> 
> On 9 Jul , 2016, at 1:50 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> 
> > What I finally did: I found that th socket in whick the contol box fits,
> > come right out with  wires attached. There is a mounting block attached by
> > two screws to the sheet metal on the wheel well. This block is not intended
> > to be moved, but it can be. Not neccesary most times however. The block is
> > keyed so that keys on the receptacle with cable attached can be lifted out.
> > Once done, you have the cable, the receptacle and the stabilizer in your
> > hand. They may be difficult to separate, but with judicious handling it can
> > be done. Plugging the stabilzer box into the recepticle can be a chore..I
> > was unsble to get the blades of the stabilzer to recess all the way. Had
> > about 1/16" gaposis left. I finally took some rubber-like 1" tape and
> > applied to the front and sides over the gap.on the back, there was little I
> > could do.  Left the gap there uncovered. Put the box and plug in place,
> > installed the tail light fixture. Turned on the ignition and checked the
> > stabilizer valve. It was humming nicely. Started the engine, let it idle a
> > bit then raised the rpm. The stabilzer system worked, as the system held
> > rpm at 1200 to 1500 rpm with the AC on and running,
> >
> > I didn't check the power steering aspect of this.
> >
> > Next project - (1) try and get the tach on line (works sometimes -
> > sometimes not), (2) troubleshoot the cruise control and repair/adjust it.
> > (3) install sound deadening material (3M) in the engine compartment.
> >
> > John
> > On Jul 9, 2016 13:52, "Stephen Engel" <sengel543@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I have the same problem. I was thinking weather resistant duct tape. It's
> >> really difficult to manipulate the tape in that confined space though. A
> >> big blob of dielectric grease? Seal the whole "chamber"?
> >>
> >> Steve
> >> 87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 9, 2016, at 1:16 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I am replacing the failed unit, but find that the new unit won't seat all
> >>> the way. Has about a1/16th or so gap from being fully seated. This
> >> exposes
> >>> it to moisture.
> >>>
> >>> Anyone have any ideas as to how to seat the thing in the socket?
> >>>
> >>> John
> >>
>