Update:

Before: Engine would die, but after a while would be possible to start it
again, then engine would die a few minutes later. Installed a new coil,
engine still dies like before (anyone needs a bran new Bosch coil?)
Suggestion was that it might be a bad hall sensor or coil.

Now: Last time the engine died, when I turned the ignition key to the on
position, the fuel pump didn't engage for the 1 initial second. I left the
ignition to the on position, and after a few minutes I heard the pump go
on. I was then able to start the engine. It died again a few minutes later.

So my new guess was that there is an issue with the pump and the engine
died from no gas.

I waited the pump would not come on with the ignition on the on position. I
searched a bit and it was recommended to short the pin 87 and 30 in the
right side relay of the black box above the coil.  I did that and was able
to get home.

Tried again and the gas pump now turns on when I turn the ignition to the
on position. Gawd I hate intermittent issues.

Any suggestions on what how to troubleshoot this?
On Jul 7, 2016 4:57 PM, "Fuzzy :philippe" <fuzzmeister@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks, I think I saw it but if you can spot it, send in the link!
>
> A bientot et avec amour,
>
> :Philippe
>
> Love Coach ~ Event Producer ~ Certified Sexological Bodyworker
> Philippe Lewis ~ fuzzmeister@gmail.com ~ 415-505-0786
> www.Exquisite.Love ~ www.ClubExoticaPresents.com
> www.facebook.com/fuzzyp ~ www.facebook.com/philippesimonlewis
>
> “Come to the edge.' 'We can't. We're afraid.'
> 'Come to the edge.' 'We can't. We will fall!'
> 'Come to the edge.' And they came. And he pushed them. And they flew."
> Guillaume Apollinaire (1880 - 1918)
>
> “A master in the art of living draws no sharp distinction between
> their work and their play; their labor and their leisure; their mind
> and their body; their education and their recreation. They hardly know
> which is which. They simply pursue their vision of excellence through
> whatever they are doing, and leave others to determine whether they
> are working or playing. To themselves, they always appear to be doing
> both.” -L.P. Jacks
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:55 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > On my 88 GL with the 2.1L WBX I have had a coil failure and a hall sensor
> > failure. Since you have evidently replaced the coil, I'd suspicion the
> hall
> > sender. My symptom were like yours for the latter. Go online to Youtube
> and
> > google hall sender vanagln. There is a video that shows how to make a
> > simple wire tester which will tell you what you want to know. That was a
> > lifesaver for me!!
> >
> > John
> > On Jul 7, 2016 18:42, "Scott - IMAP" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> > Very very high Probability ..
> > if intermittently there is no spark  coming out of the Hall Sender in
> > the distributor is kaput.
> >
> > Particularly if it's original.   Doing one myself right now.
> >
> > carefully check the connection on the side of the distributor.
> > The plug has to be well down inside that socket there.
> > OF course the plastic breaks there for that , so be careful.
> >
> > very valuable to have a spare distributor ..
> > if the ecu is the brain ..
> > the distributor is the heart ....it tells the ecu the engine is turning
> ..
> > nothing happens unless the distributor is working.
> >
> > here's how I love to check a distributor out ..
> > upplug the wire from the side of the distribtor ..
> > will any spare distribtuor ..or even with the one removed from the
> > engine ...
> >
> > set up the coil wire to zap to ground.
> > plug the dist in your hands in ..
> > turn on the key ..
> > turn dist with your fingers.
> > Every 1/4 turn you should get ..
> > big zap to ground, plus the fuel pump runs a few seconds.
> >
> > you get that and it will run.
> > if there's no ign again later ...Hall Sender very suspect.
> >
> > ( do not turn engine on starter with distributor removed !!!!!!! )
> >
> > Personally ...I don't find bad coils..I just carry a spare. Never had to
> > replace one really.
> >
> > and 'connections' in general ..
> > and make sure all ground connections are clean and decent.
> > Sometimes no one had ever checked or serviced those grounds on vanagons
> > for decades, not a good thing.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > On 7/7/2016 3:12 PM, Fuzzy :philippe wrote:
> >
> >> Coil replaced, still not starting.
> >>
> >> Mmm. Back home with a better multimeter. More investigation needed.
> >> On Jul 7, 2016 1:47 PM, "Richard Koller" <brvkoller@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> This happened to me and it was the coil. I noticed the coil was
> extremely
> >> hot to the touch in my case.
> >> Good luck.
> >> Rick
> >>
> >> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Fuzzy :philippe <fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> Just reconfirmed this now. Ignition switch was on, and wasn't able to
> start
> >>> it. Waiting a few minutes now with ignition switch off.
> >>> On Jul 7, 2016 12:34 PM, "Fuzzy :philippe" <fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yep, pointing more and more towards the coil.
> >>>>
> >>>> Also seems like keeping the ignition on makes it not start after 5m.
> But
> >>>> with ignition off it starts after 5min.
> >>>> On Jul 7, 2016 12:28 PM, "Roy Nicholl" <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Phillippe:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jim is correct - it’s one or the other.  If you are seeing no power
> on
> >>>>>
> >>>> #4
> >>>
> >>>> to the distributor, I would suspect an over-heating/failing coil.  If
> >>>>>
> >>>> you
> >>>
> >>>> are simply seeing no pulse … then the Hall sensor/sender would be
> >>>>>
> >>>> suspect.
> >>>
> >>>>   I’ve had a coil fail with similar behaviour to what you are
> >>>>>
> >>>> experiencing -
> >>>
> >>>> when it became too hot.   Thus far my hall sensor is fine - though
> I’ve
> >>>>> been told they fail more frequently than coils.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 16:11, Fuzzy :philippe <fuzzmeister@GMAIL.COM>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Definitely have power to terminal 15.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Seems like waiting 5-10m allows me to restart and drive a few
> minutes,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> then
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> engine dies again.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Interesting note: when engine is about to die, pressing accelerator
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> does
> >>>
> >>>> nothing until floored, and then I hear the engine rev up only then.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> And
> >>>
> >>>> at
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> the same time engine rpm needle on dashboard is at zero and doesn't
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> move.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Then engine dies.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Going to try to make it home 2min at a time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have the wrong multimeter (not precise enough).
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Any extra thoughts based on the above notes appreciated!
> >>>>>> On Jul 7, 2016 12:02 PM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Bad Hall sensor or bad coil. Rare coil failure but I have had
> several
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> with
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> a break in the windings that will expand when hot and stop the car.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jim
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 1:55 PM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Phillip:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Primary (#1 & #15): 0.5Ω - 0.8Ω
> >>>>>>> Secondary (#1 & #4):  2.5kΩ - 3.5kΩ or 7kΩ to 8kΩ (upper bound may
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> be a
> >>>
> >>>> little higher)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> If your coil is outside theses ranges, then it may be time to get
> the
> >>>>>>> spare out from under the bench.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Check to be certain you still have power to #15 when you are not
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> getting
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> spark.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:42, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNet.nb.ca>
> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Ooops …. those are kila-ohms on the secondary (HT) circuit … put
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> your
> >>>
> >>>> meter into the right rage.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:40, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNet.nb.ca>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Going by memory here:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Primary circuit:
> >>>>>>>>> #15 is live (low voltage side)
> >>>>>>>>> #1 is switched ground (tach signal)
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> You should have 0.5 - 0.8 (or 0.9) ohms across here
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> The HT circuit is between 1 and wire to distributer (#4?):  You
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> should
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> measure either ~2.5 - 3.5 Ohms or ~7 - 8ohms,  depending on the
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> generation
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> of your coil … one is green the other grey … I cannot remember which
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> is
> >>>
> >>>> which.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Make certain you disconnected the coil completely before measuring
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> resistance!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 15:17, Fuzzy :philippe <fuzzmeister@GMAIL.COM
> >
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Engine just died while idling in a parking lot. Zero resistance
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> between
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> terminals 1 and 15
> >>>>>>>>>> On Jul 7, 2016 11:03 AM, "Roy Nicholl" <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Centre ignition wire …. you mean from the coil to the
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> distributor?
> >>>
> >>>> Start working backwards … is the coil failing?  When there is no
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> spark …
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> do you have power into the coil?
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On 07-Jul-2016, at 14:58, Tyler Hardison <tyler@SERAPH-NET.NET
> >
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Nope, saw that message afterwards. I'll bow out. I've never seen
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> that.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 10:58 AM, Fuzzy :philippe <
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> There seems to be a lack of spark from the center ignition
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> wire.
> >>>
> >>>> Does
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> that
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> connect with the issue you had?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jul 7, 2016 10:55 AM, "Tyler Hardison" <
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> tyler@seraph-net.net>
> >>>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Phillippe,
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I too had this issue.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> The problem is likely vapor lock caused by clogged fuel
> filter
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> or
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> possibly the pressure regulator.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Look under the van on the passenger side for the fuel
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> filter(s).
> >>>
> >>>> If you
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> have two, you can eliminate the front square filter.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> --t
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Fuzzy :philippe <
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> fuzzmeister@gmail.com>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I don't post here often but I'm hoping you guys can help.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have an '87 2.1L Vanagon GL
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I drive it, and suddenly the engine stops and won't restart
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> for
> >>>
> >>>> about
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> 10min. Then it starts and runs for a few minutes and dies
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> again.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Thoughts? I'm on the road with basic tools and multimeter,
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
> >>>
> >>>> I
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> haven't
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> done this sort of diagnostic before. I could use a short talk
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> on
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> phone
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with anyone who can help. I also have the servicing manual
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
> >>>
> >>>> these
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> books
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> assume basic knowledge of such engines, which I don't.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> A quick text to 415-505-0786 would be awesome!
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Philippe
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>