Measurement is between alternator and new battery, 14.3-12.2 @ battery
12.2 represents that I drove the Westy 75 miles with i started the trip at 13.5 volts. Alternator won't charge the battery. GOWESTY starter on board. 

DennisJ

Dennis Jowell
Scotch Hollow Farm
Newbury, Vermont 

> On Jul 15, 2016, at 8:29 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> 
> I might be slow on the uptake here Dennis, but are you saying you measure 14.3 at alternator and 12.2 at battery?
> 
> And this is with a charged battery?
> 
> My first thought is that there is a big voltage drop between alternator and battery.
> 
> If I measured this on my can I would be tracing along the positive wire to the battery. I'd look at the connection at the starter. 
> 
> But it's been a long day, I'm tired, I probably have mis interpreted your results.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Alistair 
> 
>> On Jul 15, 2016, at 1:32 PM, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Alistair,
>> I did that this morning. Battery fully charged at 13.5 volts. At idle Output from alternator is now at 14.3, at battery its 12.2 at positive terminal.
>> 
>> Dennis J
>> 
>> Dennis Jowell
>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>> Newbury, Vermont 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 15, 2016, at 3:22 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Measure alternator output at the battery. Charge up battery with charger first then run engine and check voltage at positive battery terminal.
>>> 
>>> Compare to the voltage at the alternator.
>>> 
>>> Alistair
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 15, 2016, at 10:47 AM, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Just got back from a test ride. I checked the output of the alternator at idle its 14.1 at the stud positive and grounded on engine frame and stays there at high rpm. Yesterday I installed a new battery, changed it to 13.5 volts, drove 75 miles, new battery is now at 11.9-12.3. Engine is at running temp. I have no idea where to go now. I thought the 5 years old battery was DOD so,I changed it. All cables and wire are tight on battery and alternator. All have dielectric on them.
>>>> Help! Any thoughts where or what I should look at?
>>>> 
>>>> Dennis Jowell
>>>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>>>> Newbury, Vermont 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 14, 2016, at 12:40 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> You need a high end tester/charger for this.  Parts stores and Sears repair
>>>>> shops will test it for free. Should have a minimum 75% output with
>>>>> headlights lights and heater fan on. Alternatively, you can measure the
>>>>> voltage at the alternator under this load.  Ideal output should be 14.2
>>>>> volts, but 14 is typical. If 13.2 or less I consider it junk.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I've replaced two recently that tested 25% with Bosch rebuilds from my local
>>>>> supplier (who could also switch the pulley for me), one of which tested at
>>>>> 50% when installed.  They replaced it. It's just the poor QC of rebuilds, so
>>>>> test your "new" alternator too. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Stuart
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>>>>> Dennis Jowell
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 9:11 AM
>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>> Subject: Checking output of alternator.
>>>>> 
>>>>> After driving my Westy to Middlebury, Vermont area decided to visit a
>>>>> historical site in town. Westy started slow but it started back to the farm.
>>>>> Stopped at another state park and had some lunch. Westy now won't start!!
>>>>> Ugh! I used the aux battery to get it going and got home. Main battery is
>>>>> new. I suspect the alternator is NG. Once again trying to understand the
>>>>> Bentley test procedures on Pg. 27.18. What is " connect alternator/regulator
>>>>> tester" ?? All I have is my digital ohm meter. Is that what they are saying
>>>>> ?  
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis J
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis Jowell
>>>>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>>>>> Newbury, Vermont
>