Good point. I don't know if they make one for IRS? I've used these on my
78, and just assumed someone made one to work with the IRS as well.

Ned

--

Ned Savoie
Creative Director

Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
Savvy Software, Inc.
621A Islington Street
Portsmouth, NH 03801

[Telephone] 603.427.2821
[Facsimile] 603.427.0938
[Mobile] 603.828.2400

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 7:49 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

> Ned:
>
> Those are what I have on my ’66 Westfalia which has a swing axle (torsion
> bar).  They are not designed for IRS.
>
> > On 16-Aug-2016, at 00:33, Ned Savoie <ned@HARBOURLIGHT.COM> wrote:
> >
> > Hey Eric,
> >
> > It's late and I just did a quick search, but here's an example. Others
> are
> > probably far better to help find the best one (or one for the proper year
> > and vehicle). It certainly is a great arrow to have in your repair
> > quiver....
> >
> > http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/111598021A
> >
> >
> > Ned
> >
> > --
> >
> > Ned Savoie
> > Creative Director
> >
> > Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
> > Savvy Software, Inc.
> > 621A Islington Street
> > Portsmouth, NH 03801
> >
> > [Telephone] 603.427.2821
> > [Facsimile] 603.427.0938
> > [Mobile] 603.828.2400
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 7:00 PM, Eric Caron <ecaron1@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi ned,
> >>
> >>        I didn’t no there was such a beast.  Do you have a link?
> >>
> >> Luckily thanks to this list and local support I should be on the road in
> >> time for last summer trip.  And, I should have knowledge and tools to do
> >> this myself in the future.
> >>
> >> Still this could be a handy thing to have to keep me from getting stuck
> >> traveling with a open boot in the future.
> >>
> >> Eric Caron
> >> 85 GL Auto Westfalia
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Aug 15, 2016, at 4:45 PM, Ned Savoie <ned@harbourlight.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hey Eric (and list),
> >>>
> >>> What about using one of the aftermarket boots that you screw together.
> I
> >> know they have a bad reputation, but it might be the best thing to get
> you
> >> going on your trip, and then you can do the full procedure when you have
> >> more time and are not under the gun.
> >>>
> >>> Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Ned
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>>
> >>> Ned Savoie
> >>> Creative Director
> >>>
> >>> Harbour Light Strategic Marketing
> >>> Savvy Software, Inc.
> >>> 621A Islington Street
> >>> Portsmouth, NH 03801
> >>>
> >>> [Telephone] 603.427.2821
> >>> [Facsimile] 603.427.0938
> >>> [Mobile] 603.828.2400
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 3:16 PM, Eric Caron <ecaron1@comcast.net
> >> <mailto:ecaron1@comcast.net>> wrote:
> >>> Hi folks,
> >>>
> >>> One more related question on this repair
> >>>
> >>> Can someone tell me the correct torque for the CV bolts when we install
> >> the joint and boot back?
> >>>
> >>> Also, anyone have a link to the tool used on these bolts, I’d like to
> >> have one for future use.
> >>>
> >>> appreciatively,
> >>>
> >>> Eric Caron
> >>> 85 GL Auto Westfalia
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Aug 14, 2016, at 9:39 PM, Eric Caron <ecaron1@comcast.net <mailto:
> >> ecaron1@comcast.net>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi John and others,
> >>>>
> >>>>       It looks like a Vanagon friend that has done this before has
> >> time to help out on Tuesday afternoon and has a boot.  Still I plan to
> >> leave this experience prepare to do this myself if it happens again.  I’
> >> plan to get the better quality boots and have them ready to go.
> >>>>
> >>>> These tips are appreciated and I’ve read through them several times in
> >> preporation.  I am hoping to look at a friends spare axle and CV joint
> >> before handling mine.  That will be a big help.
> >>>>
> >>>>       The info given here gives me confidence and partly makes up for
> >> not  being able to see Bentley diagrams!
> >>>>
> >>>> Eric Caron
> >>>> 85 GL auto Westvalia
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Aug 14, 2016, at 3:05 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com
> >> <mailto:jrodgers113@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Eric,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On the automatic the axles are of different lengths, but the
> >> procedure for moving and replacing the boots and the CV's is the same.
> >> Others have pretty much covered the steps, but I offer this an
> alternative.
> >> For getting the CV off of the axle.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Get a block of wood (a 2 x 6 x6) is good.
> >>>>> Get a piece of solid round steel or brass twelve inches long and one
> >> half to five eights inches in diameter.
> >>>>> Remove the circlip holding the CV on the shaft.
> >>>>> Hold the shaft vertical with one hand. The end of the shaft with the
> >> CV to be removed should rest on the center of the wood.
> >>>>> Place the steel or brass rod next to the axle.
> >>>>> Now hold the the two together with one hand.
> >>>>> Let the rod slide down until it touches the side inner race of the
> CV.
> >>>>> The rod should not be of a diameter to extend into the ball bearing
> >> area.
> >>>>> Tap the upper end of the rod downward with a hammer.
> >>>>> Slide the tod slightly around the axle shaft and tap again.
> >>>>> Continue this procedure until the CV begins to slide downward towards
> >> the wood.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> At that point the CV should slide from the shaft splines. Be very
> >> careful not to let the CV fall of or the center of the CV slide out
> because
> >> the bearing will also fall out. Then it becomes a nightmare to get back
> >> together.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> To reassemble put boot on first, with the large open metal end to the
> >> end of the axle shaft. The CV should just slide on. If not freely, a
> slight
> >> bump with a rubber mallet should do the trick. Then put on the circlip
> to
> >> hold
> >>>>> the CV.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> John
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>
>
>