was the hot start relay installed after the P/N switch job?

If it was me, I'd ensure that battery clamps and posts were shiny
clean then check voltage at the OEM 50 wire when key is turned and
held at the crank starter position.

Hopefully list members will chime in if I'm wrong but as far as I
know, with 50 wire NOT connected to starter (for testing purposes),
the starter should not turn. That wire is now likely connected to the
hot start relay 86 pin.

Beware that the bigger wire to stud on starter is always "live". aka B+ wire.

Neil.

On 10/19/16, Marc Perdue <mcperdue@gmail.com> wrote:
> .... I replaced the
> neutral safety switch, both parts, and it appeared to work just fine,
> sort of (see paragraph 3). After not driving it for a week or two,
> it's back to not starting, but it won't start even if I jiggle the
> shifter.
>
> When I say won't start, I mean the starter doesn't kick over at all.
> The fuel pump is on. The battery indicator light in the front of the
> stove is green, i.e., it seems to think the battery is fully charged,
> but I haven't actually checked the battery voltage. This is a fairly
> new battery, as in, replaced this past year. I have also recently gone
> over all the ground connections EXCEPT for the ground star near the
> fuse panel. I have also installed Jay Brown's hot start relay, after
> having some other inconsistent starting issue.
>
> I haven't had time to troubleshoot much yet, but I'm going to take
> another look at the neutral safety switch. After I installed it, it
> felt like there was something catching when I would put it into Park.
> I'm concerned that one of the contacts has ripped loose or something.
>
> I'd welcome any other suggestions for things to check.
>
> Thanks,
> Marc Perdue
>

--
Neil n

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