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Subject:Re: Distributor rotor heat damage? (Solving intermittent engine stall)
From:Neil N
Date:Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:53:17 -0800

Is this Chris of T3 Techniques? Hi Chris. Ah. Ok. There is a chance
Ive mixed up rotor and cap. Or my local vendor did. The latter is unlikely.

With the paddle type coolant pump, I think there's a tendency for the
engine to run a little hotter.

All great info folks. Really appreciated. In terms of the intermittent
engine cut out, I figure the ecu was getting a little confused with a poo
or intermittent signal from the dizzy hall. A while back, right after I'd
checked the connection to dizzy, the check engine light came on and OBD
threw a trouble code for the dizzy hall (aka camshaft position sensor). At
that point, it felt like it was in limp mode. There was less power. I got
it running better but the engine cut out re appeared. Soon after that I
gave the contacts a good cleaning. So far so good. Wasn't sure if the
rotor,cap played into this issue. But I'll look into it regardless.

Neil

On Saturday, January 21, 2017, Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:

> Neil,
>
> Check distributor rotor shaft play. You will have remove the dizzy and
> check vertical play.  Too much play will hammer bits into destruction.
>
> Also, too little clearance will over hot said bits. It's easy to get the
> wrong cap/rotor button combo.
>
> I have my eyes on the techtonics tuning dizzy made specifically for ABS
> block/1.8 head combos.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>

--
Neil n

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