A cap mix up happened to me years ago on my '68.  It ran amazingly well for a while, but soon had a high speed miss. The cap was too tall, causing the spark to jump all over inside. 

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Neil N
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 4:53 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Distributor rotor heat damage? (Solving intermittent engine stall)

Is this Chris of T3 Techniques? Hi Chris. Ah. Ok. There is a chance Ive mixed up rotor and cap. Or my local vendor did. The latter is unlikely.

With the paddle type coolant pump, I think there's a tendency for the engine to run a little hotter.

All great info folks. Really appreciated. In terms of the intermittent engine cut out, I figure the ecu was getting a little confused with a poo or intermittent signal from the dizzy hall. A while back, right after I'd checked the connection to dizzy, the check engine light came on and OBD threw a trouble code for the dizzy hall (aka camshaft position sensor). At that point, it felt like it was in limp mode. There was less power. I got it running better but the engine cut out re appeared. Soon after that I gave the contacts a good cleaning. So far so good. Wasn't sure if the rotor,cap played into this issue. But I'll look into it regardless.

Neil

On Saturday, January 21, 2017, Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:

> Neil,
>
> Check distributor rotor shaft play. You will have remove the dizzy and 
> check vertical play.  Too much play will hammer bits into destruction.
>
> Also, too little clearance will over hot said bits. It's easy to get 
> the wrong cap/rotor button combo.
>
> I have my eyes on the techtonics tuning dizzy made specifically for 
> ABS
> block/1.8 head combos.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>

--
Neil n

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