Dennis, could I use this write up and others you have done in the past, on
the updated Vanagon.com site?  I am putting together a list of How-tos and
I am giving credit to those that contribute.

Ken

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 1:14 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> To begin I wish to apologize for not keeping up with the list and this
> discussion. I have been a bit busy and this topic seems to get attention
> like oil and tires. There is just a lot of information out there and
> probably the best feature of many products is the advertising.
>
> For my experience I have dealt with cooling systems and water treatment
> for vehicles and numerous industrial systems. The good, bad, and sometimes
> ugly. I have been amazed how truly de-ionized water can discolor (rouging)
> stainless steels.
>
> I have been working on VWs since about 1974 and grew up with the
> introduction of the VW water cooled stuff and even owned some Sciroccos and
> an 81 Rabbit convertible before getting into Vanagons. Back in the day due
> to advertising and perceptions most everything got Prestone Green Stuff.
> Except for an occasional water pump I never knew I had an antifreeze choice
> problem. Even my first Vanagon, an 84 GL passenger that I purchased about a
> year old got the green stuff after a water pump change. I sold it at 96K as
> I needed $$$ to help acquire Fun Bus. That was February 1988.
>
> So let's talk about Fun Bus! Yes I still have it and lately been using as
> a daily driver. I am hoping to get it to 350K. I have less than 38K to go.
> While I have had to do a number of transmission repairs, (Broke 4th gear
> twice 3-4 slider hub, and a pinion bearing), the engine has never been
> opened. Currently you can tell where it was parked by the Mobil 1 dripping
> from the crankshaft seals, (both now), but it still has proper compression,
> good oil pressure, and the antifreeze leaks now are mostly the heater
> cores. I did have to replace the valve covers a few years ago as they
> rusted out enough to leak. Also, once the Vanagon lifter clatter let the
> push rod fall out the rocker socket for intake valve cylinder 1. However
> the heads have never been off.
>
> How often do I change antifreeze? Not very. It seems that during
> "condition based" maintenance there is always a reason to open the cooling
> system more often than modern antifreezes need to be replaced. Unlike
> lubrication frequent additions, top offs, and even excessive coolant
> changes is not a good thing. Why, when you add fresh coolant or water you
> are adding fresh oxygen. If you have leaks you are also losing fluid but
> leaving the bad stuff behind and overtime the bad stuff gets concentrated.
> So the most important part of cooling system maintenance is to not have
> leaks. In theory the only loss you should have is evaporation from the
> recovery tank.
>
> The science! I am sure some folks here have home heating systems with
> radiators or baseboards. Cast iron boilers, copper pipes, valves with steel
> parts, etc. They all last for 20 to 30 years and there are no additives
> used all. Fill the system, let the oxygen purge out, metals or whatever
> reach equilibrium and the stuff is just there.
>
> Now let's look at the Waterboxer head gasket failure from corrosion
> problem. For all those that have worked on these and seen the corrosion on
> the head and also on the case where the gasket sits have you noticed that
> the corrosion is only in that area? Well, at that point it does not matter
> the choice or age of the coolant! The gasket (sealant) was failing long
> before the corrosion.  That's right. If the gasket seal was good the
> antifreeze wouldn't be there. However, once it is there the heated coolant
> mixture mixes with air and the corrosion process begins.
>
> So now let's talk about antifreeze types. Back in 1999 I purchased a new
> motor home. Ford chassis with the Triton V-10 engine. There were numerous
> stickers near the coolant tank warning to use only specified fluids and NOT
> to use Dex-Cool. This took me by surprise. After all Dex-Cool was the long
> life antifreeze darling at the time. My antifreeze education was about to
> begin.
>
> Fast forward to 2004 and the motor home gets upgraded to one with a Cat
> Diesel. Diesels it turns out have a whole different bunch of requirements.
> So I got to learn about cylinder cavitation erosion and all the additives
> or special antifreezes that deal with that. Also the need for longer life
> requirements and less abrasives to extend water pump seal life and reduced
> internal wear of really expensive radiators and stuff.
>
> OK so back to my experience. Of all the engines and cooling systems I've
> worked the coolants that seems to leave the nastiest stuff inside an engine
> include Dex Cool and the Blue stuff. The Blue stuff is an older technology
> and I just don't see a real advantage of it.  Dex-Cool seems to only work
> in systems designed for it. Flow velocity has to be part of that system
> design. As I truly like to reduce maintenance requirements (lazy) I became
> intrigued with the long life solutions used in the large Diesels and
> industrial uses. The state of the art for these applications include
> coolants such as Global Final Charge. These are 6 year, 600,000 mile
> coolants that only require an additive update at the half life for the
> cylinder cavitation prevention. These coolants also have great "wetting"
> abilities which improve cooling performance. The only real downside is that
> with the lower surface tension if there is a chance for a leak there will
> be one. Using these in the vanagon seems to also have another benefit,
> extended water pump life. Since these coolants rely less on abrasives for
> corrosion control water pump seal life is greatly extended.
>
> Fun Bus and most of my customers now run on this. I also do use the
> pre-mix. It is convenient and I end up with a more consistent mixture. Yes,
> there is more cost for the "water" part but I know the mixture is correct.
> Also for winter fill, I have seen the water and antifreeze fills not get
> mixed enough and cause freeze damage. Especially if a fill is done and you
> can't get the engine running long enough to really get the coolant mixed.
>
> As for adding a wetting additive such as "Water Wetter" these high
> performance Diesel antifreezes have that covered. Like good oils, use the
> good stuff and additives are not needed.
>
> Dennis
>

--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com