Only Prob with that Hypothesis is that the Orig' "Bad" Switch Goes to Closed very close to the Top of the Stroke

& Stays Closed All the Way to the Bottom while the Switch that Is Working Doesn't show any signs of Contact until 

about HalfWay In ~ It Just Makes No Sense ~ ~ ~

        As for the Ohms,, I have Old Eyes and may have missed the Decimal Point ~

On 11 Apr , 2017, at 8:22 PM, David Beierl wrote:

> I suspect that the issue with your original switch is a matter of you pushing the plunger all the way with your thumb vs the transmission pushing it only partway.