I have bypassed bad terminals like that when the remaining connections on such a block were still good. Run the "bad" wire past both sides of the connector to new m/f spade connectors. 

Stephen

Mobile

> On May 27, 2017, at 5:15 PM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> I failed to reply all -- sorry to David for the double post.
> 
> Also, I should add that the 67 ohms resistor is supposed to approximate the
> resistance produced when the sensor senses coolant at normal operating
> temperatures.  More or less.
> 
> Now once more, with feeling...
> 
> Once Mark pointed out my mistake I disconnected the **correct** sender and
> found the positive wire broken at the spade, with lots of corrosion.  With
> the wire stripped a little I got 9V to the brown wire's spade (tough to get
> the test lead to touch it well though) and 10V when grounding to a nearby
> ground strap instead.
> 
> I hooked up the "67 ohms" resistor that I fashioned and the temp needle
> moved for the first time in a long time -- slightly above dead center over
> the blinkenlight, which I consider normal.
> 
> Now I've gotta figure out how to get that orphaned spade out of the
> connector, or replace the connector.  The back of the spade is completely
> corroded away.
> 
> Anyhow the problem is isolated, so I think I'm well on my way.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:12 PM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Thanks David!
>> 
>> Once Mark pointed out my mistake I disconnected the **correct** sender and
>> found the positive wire broken at the spade, with lots of corrosion.  With
>> the wire stripped a little I got 9V to the brown wire's spade (tough to get
>> the test lead to touch it well though) and 10V when grounding to a nearby
>> ground strap instead.
>> 
>> I hooked up the "67 ohms" resistor that I fashioned and the temp needle
>> moved for the first time in a long time -- slightly above dead center over
>> the blinkenlight, which I consider normal.
>> 
>> Now I've gotta figure out how to get that orphaned spade out of the
>> connector, or replace the connector.  The back of the spade is completely
>> corroded away.
>> 
>> Anyhow the problem is isolated, so I think I'm well on my way.
>> 
>> Thanks again.
>> 
>> -George
>> 
>> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:03 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 2:45 PM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hi Volks,
>>>> 
>>>> '90 water-cooled automatic camper here.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thank you. :)
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> My coolant temp needle stopped moving entirely some time ago.  The
>>>> coolant
>>>> blinky light works normally (blinks initially on startup then goes out,
>>>> and
>>>> has recently blinked for low coolant level).
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Good.  Gauge doesn't have leaky timing cap, and coolant level controller
>>> is successfully simulating overheat in short pulses that activate the
>>> blinker but don't materially affect the gauge itself.
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ...which is to say I hoped to validate that the temp gauge is in working
>>>> order (including the wiring to it).
>>>> 
>>>> The first thing to do was to check that there is 10V across those wires.
>>>> Instead I found there was about 4.9V.  I tried with the negative lead
>>>> touching a ground point instead of the brown wire, and got 5.3V.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> The ECU supplies five volts to Temp-II through an ?8132 ohm? resistor,
>>> creating a voltage divider with the variable resistance of the Temp-II
>>> sender.  This however has nought to do wi' t'gauge -- the problem there is
>>> that one of the fly rods has outta skew on t'treadle.  Or more likely that
>>> the sender or connector is open, of course.  It's the black one around the
>>> corner from the blue Temp-II sender which is concerned strictly with engine
>>> operation.  265 ohms to ground should give you the bottom mark, 35 ohms the
>>> beginning of overheat zone and blinking light (light threshold is around 42
>>> ohms IIRC).  Grounding the sender lead should make the gauge go up like a
>>> slow rocket, and if you leave it connected, start smelling hot in a minute
>>> or two.  No action means either a wiring problem between engine bay and
>>> gauge (but not the panel connector or panel wiring since the low coolant
>>> warning functions) or -- very very unlikely, the gauge heater has gone open
>>> or the needle suspension has failed.
>>> 
>>> Yrs,
>>> d
>>> 
>> 
>>