Hi Laura,

It came to my attention that the link I sent only worked temporarily.  Here
is the URL YouTube provides for sharing:
  https://youtu.be/9HkA1GYQnvY
 (title: "VW T3: Westfalia starter removal", posted by "Thomas EXOVCDS")

Good luck!

George

On Sat, Jun 10, 2017 at 7:13 PM, Laura Mangan <laurakmangan@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> I will have to check this out! Thanks George. I do hear the fuel pump. I
replaced the fuel pump in March also. (well, a stellar shop in Charlotte NC
did)
>
> So, i am hearing buzzing (oil light) when i put the key in the ignition,
the dash is illuminated, and when i turn the key over.... I hear the fuel
pump whirl, but not even the slightest attempt at a crank (turning over)
>
> I'll crawl underneath when i have time and inspect the starter. hope all
is okay under there (its brand new as of March)
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Laura
>
> On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 12:12 AM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>> Laura. I just went through a no-start situation myself, and am not
>> mechanically experienced. The problem was the starter, and this video was
>> helpful in getting me familiar with the starter and how to access it:
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HkA1GYQnvY&t=258s
>>
>> You can see the starter wire connection at the solenoid (that Jim and
Jason
>> mentioned) at 4:10, when it gets pulled off.  Point being that if you're
>> are willing and able to get under your van with a flashlight -- ** never
>> with the van supported by only a jack ** -- whether or not that wire fell
>> off is something you could check for free.  You can see it without
removing
>> stuff if you're patient looking for it.  Just be careful what you touch,
>> live wires there.
>>
>> I'm curious if you hear the fuel pump whiz when you turn the key to
Start?
>>
>> -George
>> '90 Westy Camper Automatic
>>
>>  I feel like mine could totally fall off at any moment!
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Jason <uberhare@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > In usually give the crimp a bit of squeeze while I'm changing one if
that
>> > wire is at all loose.
>> >
>> > Jason
>> > Uberbus
>> >
>> > On Jun 6, 2017 8:01 PM, "Jim Arnott" <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > “The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
>> > turn
>> > > over….”
>> > >
>> > > “New starter in March.”
>> > >
>> > > Me? I’d look first that the wire from the key switch is attached to
the
>> > > solenoid. Mine has been known to fall off on occasion. Especially
after
>> > > messing with it. “New starter in March.” indicates ‘messed with.'
>> > >
>> > > Handle - Get another one.  There’s one small screw that holds the
lock
>> > > cylinder.  Remove it, exchange lock cylinders, replace it.  All done.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > > On Jun 6, 2017, at 3:07 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > There can be a number of reasons for a "no crank" situation on any
car.
>> > > Having a known good battery is the first place to "start"! Part of
that
>> > is
>> > > to have a meter and know how to use it to test voltage at the
battery and
>> > > other places while trying to crank it. From remote folks here can
suggest
>> > > many different things to look at but without some knowledge and
tools you
>> > > are simply replacing parts until it runs. So here are some places to
>> > start:
>> > > > Battery, to know it is good it needs to be load tested. A good auto
>> > > parts store may have one. Having 12 volts at rest does not mean it
will
>> > > work when you ask it to produce 200 amps.
>> > > > Starter- it is common for the Bosch units to have bad brushes or
>> > > solenoids making them intermittent.
>> > > > Ignition switch and wiring. Many have added boost relays to get
past
>> > > these problems. If automatic the neutral switch is also suspect.
>> > > > Battery and ground cables. They can look good and not be! Again,
>> > testing
>> > > under load.
>> > > > Horror of horrors! Something wrong with engine.
>> > > >
>> > > > Since it ran before it sat the battery is suspect and so is a used
one.
>> > > Batteries don’t tolerate neglect and letting them discharge and go
dead
>> > > especially in winter will destroy them. If new battery doesn’t do it
then
>> > > consider you may have a bad starter. Was it installed at a shop?
>> > Warranty?
>> > > >
>> > > > Dennis
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Dennis
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> > Behalf
>> > > Of Laura Mangan
>> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 4:35 PM
>> > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> > > > Subject: No Start & Sliding door handle'
>> > > >
>> > > > '85 1.9L Vanagon
>> > > > Potter Co. North Central PA
>> > > >
>> > > > Hi Folks,
>> > > >
>> > > > My van wont start....
>> > > >
>> > > > All was well when i last drove it (admittedly, almost a month ago)
Now,
>> > > it wont start. I tried to jump start it, And no luck. took the
battery to
>> > > NAPA, and turns out, one of the cells or something, is fried. Okay.
>> > > >
>> > > > So, i have another newish battery, i try that... No luck. Try to
jump
>> > > start with the new battery. Nothing.
>> > > >
>> > > > So, i take the battery out, put it on a trickle charger to make
sure
>> > its
>> > > charged. Yep. No luck, once again.
>> > > >
>> > > > The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try
to
>> > > turn over....
>> > > >
>> > > > New starter in March.
>> > > >
>> > > > Any thoughts?
>> > > >
>> > > > Also..... My exterior sliding door handle broke off beyond the key
>> > hole.
>> > > > So, locking mechanism is functional, but i cannot open it from the
>> > > outside.
>> > > >
>> > > > Short of replacing the entire unit (and getting another key) what
can i
>> > > do?
>> > > >
>> > > > Thanks.
>> > > >
>> > > > Hopeless and not even a slight bit mechanically inclined,
>> > > >
>> > > > Laura
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Jason <uberhare@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > In usually give the crimp a bit of squeeze while I'm changing one if
that
>> > wire is at all loose.
>> >
>> > Jason
>> > Uberbus
>> >
>> > On Jun 6, 2017 8:01 PM, "Jim Arnott" <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > “The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
>> > turn
>> > > over….”
>> > >
>> > > “New starter in March.”
>> > >
>> > > Me? I’d look first that the wire from the key switch is attached to
the
>> > > solenoid. Mine has been known to fall off on occasion. Especially
after
>> > > messing with it. “New starter in March.” indicates ‘messed with.'
>> > >
>> > > Handle - Get another one.  There’s one small screw that holds the
lock
>> > > cylinder.  Remove it, exchange lock cylinders, replace it.  All done.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > > On Jun 6, 2017, at 3:07 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > There can be a number of reasons for a "no crank" situation on any
car.
>> > > Having a known good battery is the first place to "start"! Part of
that
>> > is
>> > > to have a meter and know how to use it to test voltage at the
battery and
>> > > other places while trying to crank it. From remote folks here can
suggest
>> > > many different things to look at but without some knowledge and
tools you
>> > > are simply replacing parts until it runs. So here are some places to
>> > start:
>> > > > Battery, to know it is good it needs to be load tested. A good auto
>> > > parts store may have one. Having 12 volts at rest does not mean it
will
>> > > work when you ask it to produce 200 amps.
>> > > > Starter- it is common for the Bosch units to have bad brushes or
>> > > solenoids making them intermittent.
>> > > > Ignition switch and wiring. Many have added boost relays to get
past
>> > > these problems. If automatic the neutral switch is also suspect.
>> > > > Battery and ground cables. They can look good and not be! Again,
>> > testing
>> > > under load.
>> > > > Horror of horrors! Something wrong with engine.
>> > > >
>> > > > Since it ran before it sat the battery is suspect and so is a used
one.
>> > > Batteries don’t tolerate neglect and letting them discharge and go
dead
>> > > especially in winter will destroy them. If new battery doesn’t do it
then
>> > > consider you may have a bad starter. Was it installed at a shop?
>> > Warranty?
>> > > >
>> > > > Dennis
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Dennis
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> > Behalf
>> > > Of Laura Mangan
>> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 4:35 PM
>> > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> > > > Subject: No Start & Sliding door handle'
>> > > >
>> > > > '85 1.9L Vanagon
>> > > > Potter Co. North Central PA
>> > > >
>> > > > Hi Folks,
>> > > >
>> > > > My van wont start....
>> > > >
>> > > > All was well when i last drove it (admittedly, almost a month ago)
Now,
>> > > it wont start. I tried to jump start it, And no luck. took the
battery to
>> > > NAPA, and turns out, one of the cells or something, is fried. Okay.
>> > > >
>> > > > So, i have another newish battery, i try that... No luck. Try to
jump
>> > > start with the new battery. Nothing.
>> > > >
>> > > > So, i take the battery out, put it on a trickle charger to make
sure
>> > its
>> > > charged. Yep. No luck, once again.
>> > > >
>> > > > The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try
to
>> > > turn over....
>> > > >
>> > > > New starter in March.
>> > > >
>> > > > Any thoughts?
>> > > >
>> > > > Also..... My exterior sliding door handle broke off beyond the key
>> > hole.
>> > > > So, locking mechanism is functional, but i cannot open it from the
>> > > outside.
>> > > >
>> > > > Short of replacing the entire unit (and getting another key) what
can i
>> > > do?
>> > > >
>> > > > Thanks.
>> > > >
>> > > > Hopeless and not even a slight bit mechanically inclined,
>> > > >
>> > > > Laura
>> > >
>> >
>
>