Hi Ed,

Well the thermal wrap on the exhaust tube does reduce the heat, but not eliminate it. After about 40 min the wrap is warm, not hot. Maybe I should stick the temp probe on it to give you a better feeling about it.

I know, the backside of the fridge. I couldn't figure out what to use and there is a lot of stuff in the way that makes a full back insulation difficult. But I will say that if I had suitable material I would have jammed some in between the sheet metal shroud of the "generator" ( the mineral wool insulated part above the combustion chamber) and the fridge body. That shroud does get hot. But I just didn't know what to use to insulate. 

Neil documented or posted about pulling the entire heat exchanger from the tube inside the fridge. I chickened out after just a little trying. It's just clipped on the tube right? Maybe I'll try again.

Ok laff it up about my thermal paste choice. I used the aluminum coloured anti sieze, im betting the copper based stuff would work even better.
:-)

Alistair 

> On Jun 20, 2017, at 6:37 AM, Edward Maglott <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> very nice mods!  I insulated my exhaust pipe with a high temp wrap blanket
> thing made to put on the starter motor.  Does your double wrap of
> fiberglass tape stay pretty cool to the touch on the outside?  the one
> thing I would suggest is to insulate the back of the fridge from the heat
> of all that hot stuff behind it.  this seemed to make a big difference on
> mine, along with the above mentioned insulating of the exhaust pipe.
> 
> I don't remember the fins coming off of the part inside the fridge that
> snaps onto the cooling pipe.  seems like that was all one piece on mine.
> I was scared to pull on mine too.  I found that I could get my fingers
> beside/behind the fins unit on the left side, at the end of the cooling
> pipe and hold it, then pull on the fins unit and it came off starting at
> that end.  it was having quite poor contact with the cooling pipe.  for
> replacing it, I first tried mayonnaise, then astroglide to improve thermal
> transfer, but neither worked better than the Radio Shack thermal paste I
> found later.  ;)
> 
> Edward
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:13 PM, Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Thanks, I'll check it out.
>> 
>>> On Jun 19, 2017 5:50 PM, "Alistair Bell" <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> About the sim based wireless control of propex. Found it , here ya go
>>> Stephen, knock yerself out :-)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.sharkbait.website/1064/controlling-the-
>>> heatsource-hs2000-heater-from-your-iphone/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Alistair
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jun 19, 2017, at 1:52 PM, Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> And while you are at it Alistair, can you rig it up so it can be turned
>> on
>>> remotely via
>>> wifi on Android and iPhone?   :)
>>> 
>>> Steven
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 4:39 PM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Alistair,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Next fridge challenge:  a set of rails (one part of fridge, one part in
>>> 
>>> van) and quick connects to allow easy installation and removal.   While I
>>> 
>>> agree the fridge lights easily when squeaky clean and adjusted, it does
>> not
>>> 
>>> stay that way long (at least mine doesn’t).
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I’d probably clean it more often if getting to the bench (and back) was
>>> 
>>> smoother.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 19-Jun-2017, at 17:01, Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Nothing super earth shaking, just exhaust insulation and a bank of three
>>> 
>>> wee squirrel cage fans.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://shufti.blog/2017/06/19/vanagon-a-couple-of-minor-fridge-mods/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Alistair
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>