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Subject:Re: Multi Conductor Shielded Automotive Wire Temperature Rating
From:Neil N
Date:Wed, 10 Jan 2018 14:12:52 -0800

Thank you for those links.

At my skill level, the electrical details I consider are beyond me in most
ways and from one point of view, I'm really "splitting hairs" here when I
probably don't need to. Distinctions between how Bentley labels a given
ground point, i.e. where it's located, wire length to it, and whether or
not adding or subtracting wire length to a given ground path matters, may
not. I guess what I'm trying to say is that from the layman POV for most
people doing a swap, running all the engine management grounds to one or
two locations shouldn't be a problem. Ironically, on my currently running
swap, one "sensor" ground wire is shortened by 90% and AFAIK, the sensors
work fine. (yes I corrected a long standing mistake!) And, swappers end up
cutting up (shortening) the harness as it is anyways. e.g. wires to/from
the TPS. But as I say, "At my skill level... "

;)

Knowing a little more now on this second harness, i can see that ground
locations, wire length, likely has more to do with the design of the
vehicle and component location rather than millivolt considerations. .....
I think.

Neil.

On Wed, Jan 10, 2018 at 12:48 PM, Steve Williams <sbw@sbw.org> wrote:

>
>

> Right.  In my Vanagon I installed a ground farm from B&C under the
> driver's seat:
>
> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx
>
> The big camping battery is inside the sink cabinet, a few inches away
> since I drilled a big hole for the heavy + and - cables.  The battery -
> cable is connected right to the big bolt on the ground farm.
>
> In homebuilt aircraft, that bolt is intended to go through the firewall to
> a ground farm on both sides of the firewall, so there's one ground point
> for absolutely everything.  I didn't drill through the van's floor, but
> instead grounded the ground farm to the van's body through a separate short
> wire.
>

--
Neil n

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