I use a spray can of silicone on all my locks, helps with freezing in cold
weather as well as lubrication.

-Mark

On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 8:18 AM, ddbjorkman@verizon.net <
ddbjorkman@verizon.net> wrote:

> That's an interesting theory.  I have wondered what's the best to do for
> lock maintenance, as my research has gone been somewhat vague.  From what I
> have heard, Steve Sandlin knows his stuff.  Anyone want to chime in on this?
>
> Dave B.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Karl Ploessl <karl.ploessl@GMAIL.COM>
> To: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 8:59 am
> Subject: Re: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
>
> I had an email exchange with Steve Sandlin and he does not support the use
> of graphite: from our email: "...The rear hatch is not difficult to remove,
> but as I recall the inner trim panel must be removed.  I would try cleaning
> and lubricating in place.  Get some carburetor cleaner or electronic
> cleaner with a spray tube.  Spray through the key slot and work a key in
> and out.  Do this a number of times until the cleaner running out is
> clean.  Allow it to dry for a few minutes, then lubricate the lock.  I
> would strongly suggest TriFlow.  Many bicycle shops and some good hardware
> stores stock it.  I've not found it at the big box stores, however.  Do not
> use graphite or WD40.  They will gum it up.  I really suspect graphite had
> been used fairly liberally in the past on the handle I tore down.  Te flush
> and lube procedure, though not as good as a full teardown, is generally
> effective."...
>
> Karl.
>
> On Sun, Jan 28, 2018 at 9:45 PM, Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Couple years ago I sent to Steve the code from inside of door handle of
> my
> > 85 Tintop; easily accessible by gently moving back foam door
> weatherstrip,
> > and then only 1 screw on door handle to remove handle assembly.  I
> bought a
> > steel key from him as opposed to softer brass; has worked flawlessly on
> all
> > doors and ignition.  Stuff wears out and things get sloppy; Steve is a
> > great resource.
> >
> > Go ahead...get a new key(s) from him.  And be worry free for next 30
> > years.  And find a nifty place under chassis to Duct Tape a spare
> > key....I've got my secret place..no, go the extra step beyond one of
> those
> > cheapo magnetic box thingies... black Duct Tape, well wrapped, hidden
> > nicely. Ready.
> > Also...I am a big believer in graphite powder for door locks.  "Puff" it
> > into the key channel via the handy plastic squeeze tube; shake up the
> tube
> > first.  Available at Home Depot.  Those 5 floating thingies, I forget the
> > name, but the things on springs inside lock mechanism that either engage
> or
> > don't engage the notches on the key; they need to be able to move up and
> > down freely in all kinds of weather conditions....hence the warning
> against
> > temporary solutions like WD-40 sprays or Tri-Flow and the like, they can
> > freeze up and/or attract constricting dirt.
> > If you have used liquid lubricant in the past to try to better door
> locks,
> > there is probably a method to remove that crud and do it right.
> > Steve himself might also chime in.  Anyway, nothing as frustrating as
> > trying to enter and no go.
> >
> > Rich
> > San Diego
> >
> >       From: Steve Williams <sbw@SBW.ORG>
> >  To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >  Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:55 PM
> >  Subject: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
> >
> > Steve Sandlin did a great job on my locks and keys this month, so I want
> > to add my voice to everyone here who has recommended him!  If you need
> > any work done on your locks, contact Steve right away.
> >
> > http://www.steveslockshop.com/volkswagen.html
> >
> > Don't be like me: I put up with frustrations for far too long, even
> > after I saw Steve recommended here.  I should have asked for his expert
> > help much sooner.
> >
> > When I got my '84 Westy in 2009, it came with only two, badly-cut keys.
> > They were cut correctly only on one side, so they only worked one way in
> > the locks.  Somebody had cut a notch in one side of the steel key as a
> > reminder of the right way.  But the key with the rubber VW bow often
> > fooled me, so it was a constant frustration.
> >
> > And over the years, the front door locks got dirtier inside, so they
> > were difficult to operate.  Except on the side of the van that had sun
> > shining on it for a few hours.  Apparently the sun would melt the grimy
> > ear wax stuck in the lock, so it was easier to turn.
> >
> > Then I got a new old stock sliding door handle, which came with its own
> > key, and I was too lazy to reach out to Steve to get it re-keyed to
> > match my van.  I couldn't be troubled to carry two keys, so I just
> > reached in from the front passenger door to lock and unlock the slider.
> >
> > I wasn't sure how to send my front door handles to Steve and still keep
> > the van secure, since it's parked outside.  When I asked, Steve offered
> > to send me loaner handles for the few days it would take to send him my
> > handles, let him do the work, and get them back.  (I didn't bother with
> > a loaner for the sliding door, since it's unlikely a thief would know
> > how to operate it without the handle.)
> >
> > I sent Steve the three handles and one of the badly-cut keys for
> > verification.  (The ignition and hatch lock were working fine.)  In a
> > few days, he sent them back, clean and keyed alike.  And two new steel
> > keys and two new rubber keys, cut correctly so they work either way.
> >
> > I put the handles on and tried all four keys in the doors and the
> > ignition both ways, and they all work smoothly.  Yipee!
> >
> > Even better, Steve's fee was very modest.  Why did I ever wait so long!
> >
> > Thanks, Steve!
> >
> > https://sbw.org/sbwsty/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>