I got the spray bottle which has a tube to squirt in lock holes-YMMV

> On Jan 29, 2018, at 12:23 PM, ddbjorkman@verizon.net wrote:
> 
> OK, which one did you use?  Spray, foam or pin point?
> 
> Dave B.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Buese <tantonbz@GMAIL.COM>
> To: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 12:00 pm
> Subject: Re: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
> 
> Here’s what Steve S recommended to me, & I have this stuff & it is the bomb! YMMV
> 
> https://www.triflowlubricants.com/category/lubricants <https://www.triflowlubricants.com/category/lubricants> <https://www.triflowlubricants.com/category/lubricants <https://www.triflowlubricants.com/category/lubricants>>
> 
> Mr. BZ
> 
> 
> > On Jan 29, 2018, at 11:18 AM, ddbjorkman@verizon.net <mailto:ddbjorkman@verizon.net> <ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET <mailto:ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET>> wrote:
> > 
> > That's an interesting theory. I have wondered what's the best to do for lock maintenance, as my research has gone been somewhat vague. From what I have heard, Steve Sandlin knows his stuff. Anyone want to chime in on this?
> > 
> > Dave B.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Karl Ploessl <karl.ploessl@GMAIL.COM <mailto:karl.ploessl@GMAIL.COM>>
> > To: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>>
> > Sent: Mon, Jan 29, 2018 8:59 am
> > Subject: Re: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
> > 
> > I had an email exchange with Steve Sandlin and he does not support the use
> > of graphite: from our email: "...The rear hatch is not difficult to remove,
> > but as I recall the inner trim panel must be removed. I would try cleaning
> > and lubricating in place. Get some carburetor cleaner or electronic
> > cleaner with a spray tube. Spray through the key slot and work a key in
> > and out. Do this a number of times until the cleaner running out is
> > clean. Allow it to dry for a few minutes, then lubricate the lock. I
> > would strongly suggest TriFlow. Many bicycle shops and some good hardware
> > stores stock it. I've not found it at the big box stores, however. Do not
> > use graphite or WD40. They will gum it up. I really suspect graphite had
> > been used fairly liberally in the past on the handle I tore down. Te flush
> > and lube procedure, though not as good as a full teardown, is generally
> > effective."...
> > 
> > Karl.
> > 
> > On Sun, Jan 28, 2018 at 9:45 PM, Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net <mailto:rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>>
> > wrote:
> > 
> >> Couple years ago I sent to Steve the code from inside of door handle of my
> >> 85 Tintop; easily accessible by gently moving back foam door weatherstrip,
> >> and then only 1 screw on door handle to remove handle assembly. I bought a
> >> steel key from him as opposed to softer brass; has worked flawlessly on all
> >> doors and ignition. Stuff wears out and things get sloppy; Steve is a
> >> great resource.
> >> 
> >> Go ahead...get a new key(s) from him. And be worry free for next 30
> >> years. And find a nifty place under chassis to Duct Tape a spare
> >> key....I've got my secret place..no, go the extra step beyond one of those
> >> cheapo magnetic box thingies... black Duct Tape, well wrapped, hidden
> >> nicely. Ready.
> >> Also...I am a big believer in graphite powder for door locks. "Puff" it
> >> into the key channel via the handy plastic squeeze tube; shake up the tube
> >> first. Available at Home Depot. Those 5 floating thingies, I forget the
> >> name, but the things on springs inside lock mechanism that either engage or
> >> don't engage the notches on the key; they need to be able to move up and
> >> down freely in all kinds of weather conditions....hence the warning against
> >> temporary solutions like WD-40 sprays or Tri-Flow and the like, they can
> >> freeze up and/or attract constricting dirt.
> >> If you have used liquid lubricant in the past to try to better door locks,
> >> there is probably a method to remove that crud and do it right.
> >> Steve himself might also chime in. Anyway, nothing as frustrating as
> >> trying to enter and no go.
> >> 
> >> Rich
> >> San Diego
> >> 
> >> From: Steve Williams <sbw@SBW.ORG <mailto:sbw@SBW.ORG>>
> >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> >> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:55 PM
> >> Subject: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
> >> 
> >> Steve Sandlin did a great job on my locks and keys this month, so I want
> >> to add my voice to everyone here who has recommended him! If you need
> >> any work done on your locks, contact Steve right away.
> >> 
> >> http://www.steveslockshop.com/volkswagen.html <http://www.steveslockshop.com/volkswagen.html>
> >> 
> >> Don't be like me: I put up with frustrations for far too long, even
> >> after I saw Steve recommended here. I should have asked for his expert
> >> help much sooner.
> >> 
> >> When I got my '84 Westy in 2009, it came with only two, badly-cut keys.
> >> They were cut correctly only on one side, so they only worked one way in
> >> the locks. Somebody had cut a notch in one side of the steel key as a
> >> reminder of the right way. But the key with the rubber VW bow often
> >> fooled me, so it was a constant frustration.
> >> 
> >> And over the years, the front door locks got dirtier inside, so they
> >> were difficult to operate. Except on the side of the van that had sun
> >> shining on it for a few hours. Apparently the sun would melt the grimy
> >> ear wax stuck in the lock, so it was easier to turn.
> >> 
> >> Then I got a new old stock sliding door handle, which came with its own
> >> key, and I was too lazy to reach out to Steve to get it re-keyed to
> >> match my van. I couldn't be troubled to carry two keys, so I just
> >> reached in from the front passenger door to lock and unlock the slider.
> >> 
> >> I wasn't sure how to send my front door handles to Steve and still keep
> >> the van secure, since it's parked outside. When I asked, Steve offered
> >> to send me loaner handles for the few days it would take to send him my
> >> handles, let him do the work, and get them back. (I didn't bother with
> >> a loaner for the sliding door, since it's unlikely a thief would know
> >> how to operate it without the handle.)
> >> 
> >> I sent Steve the three handles and one of the badly-cut keys for
> >> verification. (The ignition and hatch lock were working fine.) In a
> >> few days, he sent them back, clean and keyed alike. And two new steel
> >> keys and two new rubber keys, cut correctly so they work either way.
> >> 
> >> I put the handles on and tried all four keys in the doors and the
> >> ignition both ways, and they all work smoothly. Yipee!
> >> 
> >> Even better, Steve's fee was very modest. Why did I ever wait so long!
> >> 
> >> Thanks, Steve!
> >> 
> >> https://sbw.org/sbwsty/ <https://sbw.org/sbwsty/>
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>