He's got an '85, so he has the new-type door with no sliding surfaces, just
rollers.

Yrs,
d

On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 10:12 AM, Patrick Seurynck <climb12@gmail.com> wrote:

> Eric,
> As to the 'where to apply' part of your question, I applied the tape to the
> friction surfaces of both the top and bottom rails, not the bearings
> themselves.
> I did this a year ago and it is working great.
>
> On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 8:03 AM Patrick Seurynck <climb12@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Eric,
> > I used some of that special tape, PTFE, on my sliding door and it works
> > great! 84 Westy.
> > The surface has to be perfectly clean and the tape has to be a precision
> > fit with no loose ends or tabs that can catch.
> > It reduced friction and quieted the sliders some as well.
> > Patrick
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 4:56 PM Eric Caron <eric.caron@icloud.com> wrote:
> >
> >> OK parts ordered,
> >>
> >>         Wish me luck, I went with the new hinge, the door stop, and the
> >> bearing kit
> >>
> >>
> >> I’ll do the work  with a friend who recently removed and returned his 78
> >> bus slider.  So it is hopefully similar.
> >>
> >> Any tips are appreciated.
> >>
> >> I will want to clean up the track under the outer shield as I can feel
> >> some flaking paint.
> >>
> >> Any tips on that are appreciated.
> >>
> >> I’m planning to clean well and sand then prime and paint that hidden
> area
> >> with rattle can paint.  So any tips on primer and paint are appreciated.
> >> It isn’t very rusty in there but the paint is starting to flake to my
> touch
> >> on the track.
> >>
> >> I also have some special tape I purchased for the track from a related
> >> thread several years ago.  Anyone have any thoughts on that tape and
> how to
> >> use it correctly and where?
> >>
> >> Thanks for everyone’s advice and suggestions.
> >>
> >> Eric Caron 85 GL Auto
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 3, 2018, at 17:24, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> It would most likely be best to get the complete hinge assembly, part
> >> 251843336B.
> >> You probably also need the stop, 251843876.
> >> This is a 2 person job and preferably one of them with practice. Both
> the
> >> hinge and striker bolt on the van get adjusted.
> >>
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> >> Of Eric Caron
> >> Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 4:28 PM
> >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >> Subject: Re: Sliding door question
> >>
> >> Hi folks,
> >>
> >>        I was able to look at other vanagon door hinges and mine is not
> >> working like others.  My spring can move back and forth.  the others are
> >> held in place.  Mine seems out of position.
> >>
> >>        those looking at it wiht me suggested removing it and seeing
> about
> >> getting the spring back in place.
> >>
> >> I don’t think my skills are up to this at least not in a timely fashion.
> >>
> >> Myu plan is to order the hinge as Stuart recommended, and while the door
> >> is partly off I might as well replace any replaceable parts as they are
> >> likely well worn.
> >>
> >> So, what parts can I replace?  So far it sounds like the hinge and the
> >> bushing set.
> >>
> >> I will also clean the track under the cover and probably spray that with
> >> some paint to preserve.
> >>
> >> What else can I do to get the best life and health out of the sliding
> >> door?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Eric Caron
> >> 85 GL Auto
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 2, 2018, at 16:25, Eric Caron <eric.caron@icloud.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Jim and others,
> >>
> >> It is well lubed and very clean.
> >>
> >> Still I get no pop when opening
> >> I get a reasonable resistence when closing.
> >>
> >> I’ll look at some busses tomorrow to compare mine.
> >>
> >> If my spring is broken I’m good with getting the new one or if Jim has a
> >> good one for a 85 I would be happy with that.  I wanted to see if Jim
> had a
> >> original battery holder in his stock anyway!
> >>
> >> Eric Caron
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 2, 2018, at 13:27, Jim. Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Replace I guess. I have later model door parts aplenty, probably the
> >> earlier ones are gone. Take off that cover (two screws, bump straight up
> >> from below) and take a look and make sure that what you have is in place
> >> and lubed. When you push it it at the back, with the flat of your hand
> on
> >> the rear of the door, it should not flop or collapse but should resist
> your
> >> push, and you should have to smack it good to push it home. Conversely,
> >> when you release the lever, it should smartly push out on its own.
> >>
> >> Jim
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 11:03 AM Eric Caron <eric.caron@icloud.com
> >> <mailto:eric.caron@icloud.com>> wrote:
> >> This is great info.
> >>
> >> I think my problem is in the back, but I am not sure how to confirm
> >> this.  The spring on the door side of the rear connector seems loose and
> >> turns easily even as the door is in open and close position.  I can’t
> >> imagine it is helping in any way.
> >>
> >> Any tips on testing and ways to improve?
> >>
> >> The rest of my door set up seems great.  It runs quiet and smooth.
> >>
> >> Tips for spring fix?
> >>
> >> Eric Caron
> >> 85 GL auto
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 1, 2018, at 17:26, Jim. Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM <mailto:
> >> jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Regarding "springing out" upon opening, you've got a wound spring in the
> >> back that jacks a steel arm out when the back is released, which carries
> >> the back of the door out away from the body on both early and late
> models.
> >> If it doesn't spring out readily, you have to do more work yourself to
> get
> >> the back free. More tugging. Yes, the "long handle" early doors take
> more
> >> effort to open, but if the front release and back release work
> >> together--the timing is of course done through adjusting the cable that
> >> connects the two--and the front and back springs and catches are in good
> >> shape, it should pop right open with either the early or late setup.
> >>
> >> If your cable is slack, the front may unlatch but the back release will
> >> take extended effort to free. After more wear, it won't open at all.
> Time
> >> to take a look at it.
> >>
> >> Jim
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 2:38 PM Jack R <jack007@comcast.net <mailto:
> >> jack007@comcast.net>> wrote:
> >>
> >> > What year... my 84 has a different mechanism than the later models,
> and
> >> is
> >> > harder to open than our friends 90.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <mailto:
> >> vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf
> >> > Of Steve Williams
> >> > Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 2:19 PM
> >> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> >> > Subject: Re: Sliding door question
> >> >
> >> > Dan, good advice.
> >> >
> >> > Related: My slider works well, but the handle requires quite a lot of
> >> > force.  Is that normal?  Is there an adjustment?
> >> >
> >>
> > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
> >
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>