I would spray the metal connections down with either PB Blaster or WD-40 a
few days before you are getting ready to do the work.  Usually this will
help loosen things up before you begin to do the work.  If you can find a
line wrench in 11mm that would also give you the best chance of not
wrecking the fittings.

Ken

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 4:59 PM pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks for all the responses!
>
> It looks like I just had rusty rotors.
>
> I'm considering replacing the rubber brake lines at the same time as a
> change the rotors, however, I have heard these can be very hard to remove.
>
> Any tips on this?  Is it likely to turn an otherwise smooth job into a big
> headache?
>
> Also, I guess it means I would lose a lot of brake fluid.  Would I have to
> bleed the rear brakes (ore even also the clutch) if I remove those front
> hoses?
> -Wes
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 10:12 PM, pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Pickle's stopping power has long been on my list of things to address.
> >
> > We have 16" CLK wheels so a bigger brake kit seems like a natural idea.
> > But are late model front spindles in good condition readily obtainable?
> >
> > Basically here is what I'm considering:
> > 1) Overhaul the rear brakes, hope for an improvement there
> > 2) Rear disc brakes (i.e., the smallcar or burley kits)
> > 3) somehow get some late model spindles and do the big brakes up front,
> in
> > addition to either 1) or 2).
> >
> > Maybe I am being naive, but coming from an 83.5, #2 seems like it may
> have
> > a better ratio of effectiveness to hastle than #3.
> >
> >
> > Thoughts?
> > -Wes
> >
> >
>

--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com