Ok thanks! I am planning on doing them all then.  I've got a set of Cunifer
line and fittings coming from fedhillusa.  For those lines in the front,
they go through a hole in the floor.  Is it easiest to aim up from below or
the other way around?

And as far as the clutch goes: as long as I don't touch the clutch while
the brake system is dry, I shouldn't need to bleed it, should I?

On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 2:43 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> The lines going up the master cylinder are not that bad to change. There
> are only 2. One goes to a tee near the left front wheel and the other goes
> to the brake pressure regulator for the rear.
> A common place for them to fail is inside the union nuts. Often, when they
> are stuck, it is, no at the threads that get corroded together. Heat will
> often let you get them loose without twisting off the line. There are a lot
> of options for brake tube and fittings. You will need an ISO bubble flare
> tool to connect with any of the original parts. You can get pre-made brake
> lines in many lengths to get the job done.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> pickle vanagon
> Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2018 1:17 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: brake line replacement: partial or full?
>
> While poking around in advance of changing out my rotors and pads, I
> noticed that I have some rust on some of my hard braked lines.  So now I
> figure I should change those too.
>
> So far I have only seen rust on the rear lines, where access doesn't seem
> to bad.
>
> I'm assuming the worst lines to change are the ones that actually go to
> the master cylinder.
>
>
> Any thoughts on sticking with a partial replacement?  Apart from obviously
> being less work, this means a lot fewer disturbed fittings.
>