That certainly points to a heater valve. Do you have a short piece of hose
connector that would allow you to remove the valve and put the two ends
together. If still no heat, you've got a bad stoppage somewhere.

Jim

On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 11:02 PM thewestyman <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:

> I was working on it doing the following.
>
> After running the engine little over 2000 rpm, doing the bleeding
> procedure
> without success to have heat, noticed the reservoire getting more and more
> full.
> Stopped, waited to cool down to open the cap to change it for a new one.
> After that started again, yet when I finished, I still had no heat.
> Waited too cool again.
> I had an idea; how about looking into the heater core supply lines and see
> if there is any coolant?  Took the glove compartment out, took the center
> piece out to get to the hoses that work in the circulating system.
> I found them totally empty.  After doing correct procedure of bleeding.
> So, I started filling up the hoses, pinching them off when full.  And
> filled
> the heater core with coolant also, using a small plug on one end that I
> removed to let air out, but plugged in when full.
> Replace the hoses onto the full, or almost full, heater core.  Did the
> procedure again and found no heat again.
> That's how the work is standing now.
>
> Zoltan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim. Felder
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 11:35 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
>
> The Libby Bong is a great device. But every driver should know how to
> properly bleed a Vanagon with their "bare hands." You never know when,
> where nor why you will have to do it. You may not have your usual tools
> with you.
>
> Jim
>
> On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 12:39 PM Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > You are using a mini-Libby Bong method:
> > https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-234192--.html
> > (unfortunately, the photos are gone, check other "Libby Bong" posts on
> The
> > Samba for photos.)  The Libby Bong is a 1 1/2" ABS pipe with a plumbing
> > reducer to connect to the expansion tank in place of the cap. To avoid
> > coolant flowing out of the pipe when removed, there is a 1/2" vinyl tube
> > that goes into a hole near the bottom that acts as a drain went the top
> of
> > the tube is lowered.
> >
> > If you are filling back though the cap that would be very slow, make a
> > Libby Bong instead.
> >
> > Stuart
> >
> > I do the bleeding a little differently.  Check it out if it's any good.
> >
> > Fill up the pressure tank as much as I can, engine running idle, put cap
> > back on.
> > Disconnect at the pressure tank the hose that goes to the bleed line,
> plug
> > the bleed line and connect a yard long hose to the disconnected one, keep
> > it vertical, have a funnel in it,open radiator bolt, keep on filling up
> > the
> > system with coolant until it comes out on the top of the radiator.  Take
> > the yard long vertical hose off, reconnect the disconnected hose to the
> > bleeding line.  Finished.
> >
> > Now, because the funnel is higher than the heater core, which is the
> > highest part of the system, I assume the core is full because the heater
> > hose is not closed by the thermostat.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > Zoltan
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim. Felder
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 8:53 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
> >
> > You don't need to do anything with the hose coming out of the heater
> core.
> > It won't do you any good as you can't use the connections to raise the
> > coolant level, only to drain and lose it! You need to follow the
> procedure
> > in the Bentley or the many variations written up on the Internet. They
> all
> > involve getting the engine warm enough to open the thermostat, and
> keeping
> > an eye on the tank level. After the car is warm--and with the heater
> valve
> > wide open--loosen the bleed bolt from the top of the radiator. If you
> have
> > a 2.1 you have a bleed valve on the thermostat housing that comes into
> > play
> > as well. Then you rev the engine to about 2000 with a wooden wedge, run
> to
> > the front and back the bleed bolt out until you get a strong hiss of air,
> > or else solid coolant--not a mix of coolant and air. You may have to
> > remove
> > the bolt all the way. Best to have someone else back in the back to keep
> > an
> > eye on the level in the tank, because this is the point where it falls a
> > lot as the upper parts of the system are suddenly being filled by the
> > action of the water pump. When the top of the radiator is warm to the
> > touch
> > and a solid stream of coolant is coming out of the bleed hole, tighten
> the
> > bolt back down, final fill the tank, put the cap back on the tank and cut
> > the revs back to idle. A couple of cool-down/heat up cycles on short
> trips
> > should finish the task as a properly-working system draws coolant in from
> > the overflow tank as any trapped air bubbles cool and contract.
> >
> > If your car doesn't respond as expected, then something is not right.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 10:31 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca>
> wrote:
> >
> > > … and here I thought they only ever stuck open … in July :-|
> > >
> > >
> > > > On 22-Aug-2018, at 12:19, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > are you sure that the heater valve is not stuck closed?
> > >
> >
>
>