You're welcome.  Hold the switch level (terminals down) while carefully
prising off the cover (after you start the latches).  Same orientation when
reassembling.  Might take a couple tries to keep everything in the right
place going back in.

All the headlight switches I've taken apart have had heavy wear on the main
contacts; ok as emergency spare maybe, but hardly worth putting back
together otherwise.

Yrs,
d

On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 3:47 PM, Mark Belanger <mbelanger@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ah, so I'm likely back to a bad switch only, which is likely reparable, if
> I understand correctly.
>
> Nice to have the luxury of a functioning switch, prior to tearing the old
> one apart...
>
>
> Thanks again,
> -MB
>
> On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 12:05 PM David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The problem was no running lights and no dash lights, so something is
>>> wrong
>>> with both the switch and rheostat.
>>>
>>
>> See 97.211 tracks 96-98. The rheostat (pin 58e) gets power from fuse S20
>> which is fed from the headlight switch 58 pin; so if the switch doesn't
>> make connection you get no running lights and no panel lights. Rheostat is
>> no doubt fine.
>>
>> Yrs,
>> d
>>
>
>
> --
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Mark Belanger - mbelanger@gmail.com
>