Thanks for the tip!

Now I have another fun(?) project to add to my 200 other ones...

-MB

On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 1:22 PM David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> You're welcome.  Hold the switch level (terminals down) while carefully
> prising off the cover (after you start the latches).  Same orientation when
> reassembling.  Might take a couple tries to keep everything in the right
> place going back in.
>
> All the headlight switches I've taken apart have had heavy wear on the
> main contacts; ok as emergency spare maybe, but hardly worth putting back
> together otherwise.
>
> Yrs,
> d
>
> On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 3:47 PM, Mark Belanger <mbelanger@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Ah, so I'm likely back to a bad switch only, which is likely reparable,
>> if I understand correctly.
>>
>> Nice to have the luxury of a functioning switch, prior to tearing the old
>> one apart...
>>
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> -MB
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 12:05 PM David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The problem was no running lights and no dash lights, so something is
>>>> wrong
>>>> with both the switch and rheostat.
>>>>
>>>
>>> See 97.211 tracks 96-98. The rheostat (pin 58e) gets power from fuse S20
>>> which is fed from the headlight switch 58 pin; so if the switch doesn't
>>> make connection you get no running lights and no panel lights. Rheostat is
>>> no doubt fine.
>>>
>>> Yrs,
>>> d
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> Mark Belanger - mbelanger@gmail.com
>>
>
>

--
________________________________________________________________________
Mark Belanger - mbelanger@gmail.com