Resolved > YEA ~

It appears as though some Motor/Switch in the System had gotten Out Of Sync

ie Signals Crossed ~ I just went out and activated the Slider Lock with a Jumper

Batt a few times (with slider open) leaving it in the Locked config', closed the 

slider & now All Locks are back to Normal ~

        A few days ago a Friend & I had been standing @ the sSlider working with

some Camera Gear that was inside & when We were done I discovered that one

of the Keys that I had on a KeyChain hanging out of My right jeans pocket was

Extremely Hot > guessed that I had been holding it up against the Slider Lock

Contact Pins & didn't think any more about it > I have done this in the past &

it has always before gotten My attention by Actuating the Locks on contact, not

sure what was diff' about this time ~ Anyway, I'm suspecting that that is what

caused something in the System to get "Sideways" ~

        Thanks Much for all help ~

                                                        ORR ~ DeanB

On 30 Jun , 2019, at 1:59 AM, David Beierl wrote:

> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 9:17 PM OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> The Slider & Rear Hatch Locks are no longer actuated by the Front Door
>> Locks ~
>> With the Fronts Unlocked there is +12v on the Yel wire @ Slider Connect'
>> Plate to
>> Grnd & Both White & Black/Red wires ~
>> With the Fronts Locked there is 0v on the Yel wire @ Slider Connect' Plate
>> & All 3
>> (Yel, White, Red/Blk) wires show Short to Each Other & to Ground ~
>>       Not sure if it matters but this is a Canadian Version Van' ~
> 
> 
> Canadian shouldn't matter.
> 
> Your diagram is on 97.226 ff.
> 
> There are three wires that go from connector T3B near the passenger door to
> handle the rear locks, and they split at T3c near the top of the B-pillar.
> One branch goes to the slider contacts and the other branch to the hatch.
> 
> Operation is quite simple compared to the front doors -- there's no
> checking to see if the operation succeeded.  Brown wire is always grounded,
> and depending on which way the front locks are, either yellow or white is
> hot.  If either actuator motor is switched to a hot wire, the motor runs
> long enough to move the actuator half a turn of the internal gear, and at
> the end of its travel, switch from that hot wire to the other which is not
> hot at that point.  When the second wire becomes hot the motor spins for
> another half-turn and switches back to the first wire.
> 
> Neither lock interacts with the other one
> 
> Applying ground to the actuator 31 terminal, and 12V to one of the other
> terminals should either do nothing or cycle the actuator half a turn.
> 
> I suspect that what you're seeing as a short is really just the low DC
> resistance of the motors.
> 
> I'd start by testing the individual actuators for operation in both
> positions.  If they test good, then test for zero ohms between each of the
> three terminals in the connector and the corresponding wire at T3b.
> 
> Broken ground wire at/near T3b or T3b unplugged will stop both rear locks.
> 
> Yrs,
> d

               DavidB

       Thanks a bunch for chiming in on this, I was hoping You would as I suspected

You would be able to do exactly what You just did in providing a detailed synop' of

how the system is laid out ~ I'll do some more testing shortly & let You know what

I find ~ 

       Does the fact that the White Wire @ Slider Contact does not ever show 12V, no

matter whether the Fronts are locked or unlocked give You any clues ~

                                                       ORR ~ DeanB