thanks guys for the help...

does the radiator switch has to match the thermostat? (ie. 80° with 80° /
87° with 87°)

dan

On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 8:02 AM OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:

>         I think a slightly more accurate description might be >
>
> Remove Fuse Box, Look to the left & Up Slightly to find Ground Stars,
>
> Look above Ground Stars to find Rad'Fan HighSpeed Relay & FusibleLink  ~
>
>
> On 25 Jul , 2019, at 2:47 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>
> > That high speed relay rarely fails. Can you get two speeds jumping the
> switch? If so just replace the switch and see what happens. You should have
> some other means to test coolant temperature at various locations to be
> able to diagnose the system. Infrared guns are very helpful after you learn
> to use and can get consistent readings. That relay is above the fuse box.
> Dropping the fuse box will make it visible. There is a fuse link on the
> socket.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> > From: Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2019 2:58 PM
> > To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> > Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: radiator fan and A/C
> >
> > thanks Dennis,
> >
> > so the cut A/C circuitry is not related to the rad fan behavior...
> >
> > could you please tell me the exact location of the high speed rad. fan
> relay and the number on it... thanks
> > I will replace the radiator fan switch and that relay... the resistor is
> fairly new ( 2 years old)
> >
> > dan
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 11:40 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com
> <mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>> wrote:
> > If you can make 2 radiator fan speeds work by jumping the radiator fan
> switch than wiring is not your problem. For the low speed the fan the
> switch actually carries the current for the fan motor and the current-speed
> is limited by the resistor. This makes for a common failure of the switch.
> For high speed another relay, mounted above the fuse box is energized bring
> power direct from the battery to the fan motor to get the fastest speed
> possible. That high speed also disabled the AC compressor.
> >
> > So if that is working the next step is to test-replace the fan switch.
> The switches are available in a number of different temperature settings.
> The originals were set quite high to avoid nuisance running during hot
> weather. As the switch is sensing the coolant leaving the radiator it is
> normal for engine temperature to rise sometimes significantly before the
> fan is called for. Centered or just above the LED is where the engine
> temperature gauge should be normally. It is possible that due to a bad stat
> you may be running below temp so it will take longer for the coolant in the
> radiator to heat up to where the fan is needed.
> >
> > If the engine is truly running too hot and the fan switch is not sensing
> it you can have a coolant flow issue. A clogged or worse a radiator with
> internal section cracks can allow coolant to enter and exit without
> actually traveling through the core. If the engine case is damaged from a
> past water pump collision you may also have insufficient flow at idle  for
> the radiator fan switch to work.
> >
> > Dennis
>