For fun you could use an Ohm meter to see if that transistor connects to
the ECU pin that drives the ignition coil.
Put a meter probe on each of the three legs in turn and test the ECU
pin(s) with the other probe.

I would look at ECU pins 25, 12 3
to see if any leg of that transistor connects to any of those pins.

The driver transistor for the fuel injectors is the one I'm used to
seeing a bad connector at.

Mark

Alistair Bell wrote:
> That black component that had the one leg solder joint broken is BUV37B
>
> Looked up and it’s , if I read it right, a power transistor.
>
> Alistair
>
>>> On Mar 31, 2020, at 2:41 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> Yesterday wasnt much success. Was planning on more but it poured ra=
>> in most of afternoon and I really didnt want to fool around in the wEt.
>>
>> Went into work at 5, got my work work going and then tried....
>>
>> Timing light with trigger tie wrapped on, inductive lead around plug lead, etc. Crank and no flashing of light.
>>
>> Installed spare dizzy. Now I have now idea of hall sensor in this unit ok. BUt installed made no change, cranks and no timing light flash.
>>
>> I was getting pretty disheartened. Back to work and out by midnight .
>>
>> Today I got the ecu into the home workshop. And looked at it more carefully.
>> And I did find one bad solder connection. The pin does move in the joint when lightly probed.
>>
>> https://shufti.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/65892428-f4f0-4c98-b531-805319377126.jpeg
>>
>> It corresponds to the middle leg of this black square heat sunk component.
>>
>> https://shufti.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/2171ce8f-47d2-47f0-be1c-03f92115a95e.jpeg
>>
>> I will reflow the joint unless I hear back from you guys not to bother=
>> :-)
>>
>> Alistair
>