Power from the key switch feeds over the black wire to power the coil.
The thicker green wire is from the ECU, connected to a transistor in the
ECU that switches ground on and off on the green wire to fire the coil
when the ECU sees hall pulses.

There is a second black wire attached at the same place on the coil that
shares the key-on power feed with the fuel injection relay box to turn
on the ECU power relay. The relay controls the real power that comes
from the red wire power stud in the engine compartment wiring box.

There is a second green wire attached at the same place on the coil and
this feeds to the dash instrument cluster for use by the dynamic oil
warning board as well as the tachometer.

Residual pressure in the fuel loop is expected for hours/days and seeing
fuel gush once at the bleeder screw isn't much proof of current fuel
delivery. If you turn the key on/off a few times and then again have a
fuel gush when you loosen the screw then that proves that new fuel
pressure has been supplied since the last pressure release.

A single screw holds the injector pairs to the manifold and if you
remove an injector pair you can visually verify injection fuel pulses by
turning the distributor as described previously. Be aware of fire danger
while doing so.

Mark

Alistair Bell wrote:
> Just did a couple tests
>
> Fuel line tee beside dizzy. Loosened bolt and did get spurt of gas. So gas gets that far at least.
>
> Jumped between black box pos distribution stud and alternator, no change
>
> I do have 12 at both the green wire side and black wire side of coil. I mis spoke earlier about what wires fo to ecu, it is of course the fatter green wire.
>
> Confirm alternator light stays on during cranking. No movement on tach
>
> Still no gas smell from tailpipe
>
> Next is to examine ecu , esp the ecu ground .
>
> Thanks again for all the suggestions
>
> Ab
>