there's also a leak to consider at the gasket on the throttle body...
the throttle body needs to be removed to get to the gasket.

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 9:18 AM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:

> Vacuum leaks!
>
> My intake exits to the rear of the van and the AFM sits behind the left
> rear tail light. A silicone  hose connects the two.  Well, it slipped off
> just enough at the AFM. I switched the clamp for a wide stainless/pinch
> less piece.
>
> Problem solved!
>
> Chris.
> Wysłane z iPhone'a
>
> > Wiadomość napisana przez Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> w dniu
> 25.04.2020, o godz. 06:49:
> >
> > OK back to my home turf!
> > So the first thing to do is make sure the idle control system is even
> trying to work. Key on, engine not running the idle valve should be humming
> or buzzing.
> > Next step is try to diagnose based on the symptoms. When cold you just
> need to give a little throttle to keep it running or a lot? Is it running
> smooth or rough? If you need a lot of throttle or it is rough you have an
> engine performance or mixture control issue. If rough like a miss fire than
> back to an engine performance issue.
> > Once warm confirm the mixture settings are at least in range. Unplug the
> idle control valve and to be sure block it off. A plastic bag stuck between
> that hose and valve works well. O2 sensor disconnected and using a meter on
> it. You want to set the warm mixture around .6 to .8 volt and set idle
> speed to 800-850 rpm. This will insure the valve has enough range to
> compensate for most anything.
> >
> > For the failure points, the idle controller shares the temp 2 sensor
> with the ECU, it needs to see the tach signal, and then there are the
> inputs for the AC and power steering. These days the idle controller itself
> is a very common failure item. I keep a GW rebuild on the shelf. The valve
> itself very rarely fails.
> >
> > As for vacuum leaks, anything coming from the crankcase is unmetered
> air. Normal blow by from the rings usually don’t have much O2 but a
> piston-ring problem or bad or sticking intake valve can cause all sorts of
> grief. A possible vacuum leak often overlooked is the valve cover gaskets.
> A break on top may not leak oil but air can be getting sucked in and that
> enters after the AFM.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net]
> > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 10:44 AM
> > To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> > Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
> >
> >    Ooooops ~ not enough info from Me ~ The 2 Vans I was referring to are
> 2.1L H2OBoxer powered ~
> >
> >
> >> On 23 Apr , 2020, at 4:37 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> >>
> >> Yes, good to be getting back on track. Thank you.
> >> I'm not the super expert for the in line motors if fitted with the
> matching controls. We used to have a 91 Jetta. There was a 4 pin thermo
> switch that was tied in somehow with the temp 2 sensor that would cause all
> sorts of weirdness's when it failed. I think we got ~360K out of that car.
> For either engine set up the warm engine should be able to idle with the
> valve unplugged and as an additional test close off/block one of the hoses
> so that the idle air is supplied by the throttle opening and bypass
> adjustment. Set to about 800 rpm. The correct way to set up the idle is
> follow the Bentley using a duty cycle or current meter on the valve to set
> it. You want it work just a little.
> >>
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net]
> >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 11:07 AM
> >> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
> >> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
> >>
> >>        Hey Dennis
> >>
> >>    Not good to hear that You were sick but Very Good to hear that You
> >> have recovered ~
> >>
> >> Hope for Your sake that it was CV-19 as You will now have better
> >> chance of immunity when
> >>
> >> it comes around again ~
> >>
> >>    As for Alexs Idle Issue > Any guess on what it might be, I have 2
> >> Friends whose Vans
> >>
> >> are showing similar symptoms & so far the Culprit is being Illusive ~
> >>
> >>                                ORR ~ DeanB
> >>
> >>> On 22 Apr , 2020, at 3:41 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Why would one want to that? There shouldn't be much of anything in it
> and if there is that is a sign that you have an engine problem.
> >>>
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> >>> Dan N
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:19 PM
> >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
> >>>
> >>> if you have the Idle control valve, the one that sit on top near the
> breather tower... remove it and spray a lot of carb cleanr in it and let it
> sit a while...
> >>>
> >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:13 PM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> When engine is warm I’m able to adjust idle with idle adjustment
> >>>> screw. I will check the o-ring, though.
> >>>>
> >>>> Chris.
> >>>>
> >>>> Wysłane z iPhone'a
> >>>>
> >>>>> Wiadomość napisana przez alex@mevay.org w dniu 22.04.2020, o godz.
> >>>> 12:20:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Hi Chris,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I'm running the same setup as you.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sorry if this is obvious, but I didn't see you mention it.  Have
> >>>>> you checked the idle adjustment (bypass screw on throttle body)?  I
> >>>>> recall having similar symptoms when mine was set too low (screw
> damaged).
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alex
> >>>>
> >>
> >
>