I have had a couple of instances with H2OBoxrs where that Gasket has been split

& I can't ever remember doing 1st Time CheckUp for SomeOne where the 2 Screws that

Fasten the TBody to Intake Plenum were Snugged Up as Tight as they Should Be ~

On 25 Apr , 2020, at 10:21 AM, Dan N wrote:

> there's also a leak to consider at the gasket on the throttle body...
> the throttle body needs to be removed to get to the gasket.
> 
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 9:18 AM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Vacuum leaks!
>> 
>> My intake exits to the rear of the van and the AFM sits behind the left
>> rear tail light. A silicone  hose connects the two.  Well, it slipped off
>> just enough at the AFM. I switched the clamp for a wide stainless/pinch
>> less piece.
>> 
>> Problem solved!
>> 
>> Chris.
>> Wysłane z iPhone'a
>> 
>>> Wiadomość napisana przez Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> w dniu
>> 25.04.2020, o godz. 06:49:
>>> 
>>> OK back to my home turf!
>>> So the first thing to do is make sure the idle control system is even
>> trying to work. Key on, engine not running the idle valve should be humming
>> or buzzing.
>>> Next step is try to diagnose based on the symptoms. When cold you just
>> need to give a little throttle to keep it running or a lot? Is it running
>> smooth or rough? If you need a lot of throttle or it is rough you have an
>> engine performance or mixture control issue. If rough like a miss fire than
>> back to an engine performance issue.
>>> Once warm confirm the mixture settings are at least in range. Unplug the
>> idle control valve and to be sure block it off. A plastic bag stuck between
>> that hose and valve works well. O2 sensor disconnected and using a meter on
>> it. You want to set the warm mixture around .6 to .8 volt and set idle
>> speed to 800-850 rpm. This will insure the valve has enough range to
>> compensate for most anything.
>>> 
>>> For the failure points, the idle controller shares the temp 2 sensor
>> with the ECU, it needs to see the tach signal, and then there are the
>> inputs for the AC and power steering. These days the idle controller itself
>> is a very common failure item. I keep a GW rebuild on the shelf. The valve
>> itself very rarely fails.
>>> 
>>> As for vacuum leaks, anything coming from the crankcase is unmetered
>> air. Normal blow by from the rings usually don’t have much O2 but a
>> piston-ring problem or bad or sticking intake valve can cause all sorts of
>> grief. A possible vacuum leak often overlooked is the valve cover gaskets.
>> A break on top may not leak oil but air can be getting sucked in and that
>> enters after the AFM.
>>> 
>>> Dennis
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net]
>>> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 10:44 AM
>>> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>>> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
>>> 
>>>   Ooooops ~ not enough info from Me ~ The 2 Vans I was referring to are
>> 2.1L H2OBoxer powered ~
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 23 Apr , 2020, at 4:37 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Yes, good to be getting back on track. Thank you.
>>>> I'm not the super expert for the in line motors if fitted with the
>> matching controls. We used to have a 91 Jetta. There was a 4 pin thermo
>> switch that was tied in somehow with the temp 2 sensor that would cause all
>> sorts of weirdness's when it failed. I think we got ~360K out of that car.
>> For either engine set up the warm engine should be able to idle with the
>> valve unplugged and as an additional test close off/block one of the hoses
>> so that the idle air is supplied by the throttle opening and bypass
>> adjustment. Set to about 800 rpm. The correct way to set up the idle is
>> follow the Bentley using a duty cycle or current meter on the valve to set
>> it. You want it work just a little.
>>>> 
>>>> Dennis
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net]
>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 11:07 AM
>>>> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
>>>> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
>>>> 
>>>>       Hey Dennis
>>>> 
>>>>   Not good to hear that You were sick but Very Good to hear that You
>>>> have recovered ~
>>>> 
>>>> Hope for Your sake that it was CV-19 as You will now have better
>>>> chance of immunity when
>>>> 
>>>> it comes around again ~
>>>> 
>>>>   As for Alexs Idle Issue > Any guess on what it might be, I have 2
>>>> Friends whose Vans
>>>> 
>>>> are showing similar symptoms & so far the Culprit is being Illusive ~
>>>> 
>>>>                               ORR ~ DeanB
>>>> 
>>>>> On 22 Apr , 2020, at 3:41 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Why would one want to that? There shouldn't be much of anything in it
>> and if there is that is a sign that you have an engine problem.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
>>>>> Dan N
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:19 PM
>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold
>>>>> 
>>>>> if you have the Idle control valve, the one that sit on top near the
>> breather tower... remove it and spray a lot of carb cleanr in it and let it
>> sit a while...
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:13 PM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> When engine is warm I’m able to adjust idle with idle adjustment
>>>>>> screw. I will check the o-ring, though.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Chris.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Wysłane z iPhone'a
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Wiadomość napisana przez alex@mevay.org w dniu 22.04.2020, o godz.
>>>>>> 12:20:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi Chris,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I'm running the same setup as you.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sorry if this is obvious, but I didn't see you mention it.  Have
>>>>>>> you checked the idle adjustment (bypass screw on throttle body)?  I
>>>>>>> recall having similar symptoms when mine was set too low (screw
>> damaged).
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Alex
>>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>