there's another item to check regarding erratic/problematic idle...

check/replace the throttle body gasket.... remove the throttle body and you
will see it.. it's rubber gasket.. it could be cracked or shrunk...

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 8:43 AM Steven Mills <lefthanddrive123@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks to all for the info and getting back to me on this. I will act on
> all of your suggestions and get back with feedback. It’s off to the shop
> time.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On May 17, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > How did you bench test the idle valve? That valve is not designed to be
> powered with battery voltage. The controller is a current limiting device
> and the valve operation is based on duty cycle. It is fairly common for the
> controllers to fail. GoWesty offers rebuilt controllers.
> >
> > The concept of cleaning and tightening grounds can present a new set of
> problems. The wires are old and sometimes they break inside the insulation.
> The wire corrosion at the crimp can also be a problem. All quality
> connectors have a plating or coating to resist corrosion and improve the
> connection. Sanding them can ruin them.
> >
> > You should look for another performance problem. You should be able to
> adjust the idle with the valve disconnected. Setting for ~850 rpm is a good
> starting point. If you can't do that the idle control system is not your
> problem. At closed throttle the only thing the throttle position switch is
> doing is turning off the injectors if the engine speed is above some point
> say 1,800 rpm for some time. For example running down a hill with your foot
> off the pedal. Otherwise disconnected it will still idle as it should.
> >
> > Stacy's suggestion to check the fuel pump is good. Testing fuel pressure
> is an early start for any engine performance diagnoses. So is compression
> and leak down. As for vacuum leaks also consider the valve cover gaskets
> and the oil fill tube. If the plastic extension is loose, there is likely
> leak a there.
> >
> > Yes it is possible for the ECU, the distributor and other sensors to
> cause trouble. A problem with parts swapping is that should there be a
> problem that damages something, swapping now gives you another bad part.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> Steven Mills
> > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 12:21 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Idle issues
> >
> > Will try to be brief, but lots to the story. Have 87 Westy with idle
> issues. New items include engine bay wire loom, TPS and GW throttle body.
> Idle is low and sometimes erratic. Idle control valve does not vibrate/hum
> but will open/close on bench test. idle Control Module and valve has been
> changed out with spares I have to no avail. All grounds have been cleaned
> and secured. So, my question centers on whether or not the ECU can
> partially function but still be dysfunctional as to the idle. Any
> thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
>