Progress update, Coolant Pipe Replacement:
-setting myself up for success with my workspace is a big task, two days
work.

-cleaning the pipes: they are filthy with manufacturing grease and swarf.
But how do you clean them?  A cloth on a rope?  Use the recovered coolant
as the cleaning solution?  Or is there a soap or detergent which is safe to
use?  How do I know the manufacturing gunk is phosphate-free?

-Radiator: it's not broken; but I'm tempted to change it anyways.  Bad
idea?  How do I clean it or test it?  Just leave it?

-Is there a big difference between the BEHR radiator and the other after
market radiators?

-Draining and capturing the coolant.  I have a big tray to catch any
spills.  What's the best draining connection to open?

-Is high-spec Euro phosphate-free coolant worth the extra 20 bucks?

Anxious,
gab
1986 WBX 2 wheel drive camper with power steering and decommissioned A/C

ps -- after an oil and filter change, my oil pressure has bounced back up
to 28 psi at 4000rpm.

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 4:42 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Since you already have the pipes I would install them. Replace the hoses
> of course both ends while the system is empty. Consider van Café has a
> stainless steel coolant tower, downside is it still uses the "130A" hose.
> Consider replacing the t-stat housing with the aluminum version or if you
> really want to go fancy the GoWesty billet housing and cover. ($$$).
>
> Your oil pressure is scary low. 28 psi @4,000 rpm is wear limit. You could
> be overheating the oil. Make sure it is not overfilled and that oil cooler
> is actually passing coolant.  Maybe try replacing pump. The GoWesty pump is
> a good choice. They measure, test the shaft and throw away the junk. The
> o-ring cover gasket eliminates that common leak. My 91 @266K original
> bottom end with oil cooler and that pump holds ~28 psi at idle oil temp at
> 160F. At 190F ~20 psi. Fun Bus at 355K and original pump still holds ~14
> psi hot idle. Both have oil cooling systems.
>
> Dennis
>
>