Dennis: thanks for your comments -- you can't imagine how helpful they are.

Progress report:
-Got the van safely and conveniently up a bit higher; built a crude creeper
and slid under the van for a long calm look.  So nice to be able to poke
around without an agenda.
-Sprayed WD40 and worked the joints as recommended; spent a good while just
looking and planning; I think I will start with the small heater connection
that TEE's off of the large pipe near the T-stat housing.  I will try to
drain a portion of the coolant straight into buckets before opening the
recommended front hoses at the pipes.  I plan to open the radiator vent so
that I can have a steady flow out of the hose.
-I could not find the recommended "Final Charge" coolant online at Walmart
but I will find a suitable alternative.

Question:
I have a non-function A/C system, including the rad/condenser.   Does the
A/C rad decrease the amount of cooling air that gets to the engine coolant
rad?
-if so, is there a good reason I SHOULD NOT remove the non-functioning A/C
rad?

Cheers,
g

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:38 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> See below:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Gabriel Hourtouat
> Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 6:59 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
>
> Progress update, Coolant Pipe Replacement:
> -setting myself up for success with my workspace is a big task, two days
> work.
>
> -cleaning the pipes: they are filthy with manufacturing grease and swarf.
> I have yet to see a set of coolant pipes with so much stuff inside that I
> would be concerned. Wad of paper towels and compressed air to push it
> through should take care of any big stuff. If you really need to clean oil
> or debris brake cleaner will do the trick.
> But how do you clean them?  A cloth on a rope?  Use the recovered coolant
> as the cleaning solution?  Or is there a soap or detergent which is safe to
> use?  How do I know the manufacturing gunk is phosphate-free?
> Are really worried about the gunk being phosphate free or just kidding
> with us? Phosphate ir really only a problem if using hard nasty European
> tap water. Aisian cars want extra.
>
> For the ideal coolant consider the latest stuff used in Diesel trucks.
> "Final Charge" in the latest version is phosphate and nitrite free and can
> last so long that you will be out of the coolant change business. Walmart
> usually has this stuff on sale.
>
> -Radiator: it's not broken; but I'm tempted to change it anyways.  Bad
> idea?  How do I clean it or test it?  Just leave it?
> Besides conditional appearance the side tanks can crack internally and at
> some point they fail at the side tank to core connections. Take your
> chances1
>
> -Is there a big difference between the BEHR radiator and the other after
> market radiators?
> For the BEHR brand radiators there is the original version and now the
> "BEHR Service" version. The service version is made in China and it is a
> different core design. Round tubes with straight fins spaced close
> together. I have this version on Fun Bus. BAD DEAL INDEAD! It simply
> doesn’t have the cooling capacity. It will have to come out. Nothing like
> having the radiator fan run constantly even with the AC off. Using the AC
> on 90+ days the fan will go to high speed even at highway speeds. Of course
> this sucks cause besides the noise, when the radiator fan goes to high
> speed the AC compressor is cut off.
>
> I have installed some Spectra I think CU357. Had one leaker in he core but
> otherwise seem to fit and work as well as the BEHR.
>
> -Draining and capturing the coolant.  I have a big tray to catch any
> spills.  What's the best draining connection to open?
> Try as you may you will make a mess. If you really want to change it all
> you need to remove the plugs under the heads. Disconnecting the front hoses
> at the pipes lets you most of it out real fast.
>
> -Is high-spec Euro phosphate-free coolant worth the extra 20 bucks?
>
> See above about the Final Charge.
>
> Consider getting a cooling system pressure test set. You can fill the
> coolant in the back, pump up the system, open the bleeder on the radiator
> to let the air out. Close the bleeder, refill the tank in back, pressurize
> and bleed again. Do this 2-3 times and you can have the system bleed it
> enough to get it running before even starting the engine.
>
> Anxious,
> gab
> 1986 WBX 2 wheel drive camper with power steering and decommissioned A/C
>
> ps -- after an oil and filter change, my oil pressure has bounced back up
> to 28 psi at 4000rpm.
> 28 psi at 4,000 rpm is still at wear limit or it is overheated. 10
> psi/1,000 rpm is normal.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 4:42 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Since you already have the pipes I would install them. Replace the
> > hoses of course both ends while the system is empty. Consider van Café
> > has a stainless steel coolant tower, downside is it still uses the
> "130A" hose.
> > Consider replacing the t-stat housing with the aluminum version or if
> > you really want to go fancy the GoWesty billet housing and cover. ($$$).
> >
> > Your oil pressure is scary low. 28 psi @4,000 rpm is wear limit. You
> > could be overheating the oil. Make sure it is not overfilled and that
> > oil cooler is actually passing coolant.  Maybe try replacing pump. The
> > GoWesty pump is a good choice. They measure, test the shaft and throw
> > away the junk. The o-ring cover gasket eliminates that common leak. My
> > 91 @266K original bottom end with oil cooler and that pump holds ~28
> > psi at idle oil temp at 160F. At 190F ~20 psi. Fun Bus at 355K and
> > original pump still holds ~14 psi hot idle. Both have oil cooling
> systems.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
>