Good folks, Busdepot and van cafe claim
To have the real deal behr German made radiators. I think they are telling
the truth I got mine from van cafe and it’s good no issues with running
hot. I just checked van cafe is sold out but Busdepot looks like they have
stock. Cheers Tom

On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 3:31 AM Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Dennis: thanks for your comments -- you can't imagine how helpful they are.
>
> Progress report:
> -Got the van safely and conveniently up a bit higher; built a crude creeper
> and slid under the van for a long calm look.  So nice to be able to poke
> around without an agenda.
> -Sprayed WD40 and worked the joints as recommended; spent a good while just
> looking and planning; I think I will start with the small heater connection
> that TEE's off of the large pipe near the T-stat housing.  I will try to
> drain a portion of the coolant straight into buckets before opening the
> recommended front hoses at the pipes.  I plan to open the radiator vent so
> that I can have a steady flow out of the hose.
> -I could not find the recommended "Final Charge" coolant online at Walmart
> but I will find a suitable alternative.
>
> Question:
> I have a non-function A/C system, including the rad/condenser.   Does the
> A/C rad decrease the amount of cooling air that gets to the engine coolant
> rad?
> -if so, is there a good reason I SHOULD NOT remove the non-functioning A/C
> rad?
>
> Cheers,
> g
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:38 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > See below:
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> > Of Gabriel Hourtouat
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 6:59 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
> >
> > Progress update, Coolant Pipe Replacement:
> > -setting myself up for success with my workspace is a big task, two days
> > work.
> >
> > -cleaning the pipes: they are filthy with manufacturing grease and swarf.
> > I have yet to see a set of coolant pipes with so much stuff inside that I
> > would be concerned. Wad of paper towels and compressed air to push it
> > through should take care of any big stuff. If you really need to clean
> oil
> > or debris brake cleaner will do the trick.
> > But how do you clean them?  A cloth on a rope?  Use the recovered coolant
> > as the cleaning solution?  Or is there a soap or detergent which is safe
> to
> > use?  How do I know the manufacturing gunk is phosphate-free?
> > Are really worried about the gunk being phosphate free or just kidding
> > with us? Phosphate ir really only a problem if using hard nasty European
> > tap water. Aisian cars want extra.
> >
> > For the ideal coolant consider the latest stuff used in Diesel trucks.
> > "Final Charge" in the latest version is phosphate and nitrite free and
> can
> > last so long that you will be out of the coolant change business. Walmart
> > usually has this stuff on sale.
> >
> > -Radiator: it's not broken; but I'm tempted to change it anyways.  Bad
> > idea?  How do I clean it or test it?  Just leave it?
> > Besides conditional appearance the side tanks can crack internally and at
> > some point they fail at the side tank to core connections. Take your
> > chances1
> >
> > -Is there a big difference between the BEHR radiator and the other after
> > market radiators?
> > For the BEHR brand radiators there is the original version and now the
> > "BEHR Service" version. The service version is made in China and it is a
> > different core design. Round tubes with straight fins spaced close
> > together. I have this version on Fun Bus. BAD DEAL INDEAD! It simply
> > doesn’t have the cooling capacity. It will have to come out. Nothing like
> > having the radiator fan run constantly even with the AC off. Using the AC
> > on 90+ days the fan will go to high speed even at highway speeds. Of
> course
> > this sucks cause besides the noise, when the radiator fan goes to high
> > speed the AC compressor is cut off.
> >
> > I have installed some Spectra I think CU357. Had one leaker in he core
> but
> > otherwise seem to fit and work as well as the BEHR.
> >
> > -Draining and capturing the coolant.  I have a big tray to catch any
> > spills.  What's the best draining connection to open?
> > Try as you may you will make a mess. If you really want to change it all
> > you need to remove the plugs under the heads. Disconnecting the front
> hoses
> > at the pipes lets you most of it out real fast.
> >
> > -Is high-spec Euro phosphate-free coolant worth the extra 20 bucks?
> >
> > See above about the Final Charge.
> >
> > Consider getting a cooling system pressure test set. You can fill the
> > coolant in the back, pump up the system, open the bleeder on the radiator
> > to let the air out. Close the bleeder, refill the tank in back,
> pressurize
> > and bleed again. Do this 2-3 times and you can have the system bleed it
> > enough to get it running before even starting the engine.
> >
> > Anxious,
> > gab
> > 1986 WBX 2 wheel drive camper with power steering and decommissioned A/C
> >
> > ps -- after an oil and filter change, my oil pressure has bounced back up
> > to 28 psi at 4000rpm.
> > 28 psi at 4,000 rpm is still at wear limit or it is overheated. 10
> > psi/1,000 rpm is normal.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 4:42 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Since you already have the pipes I would install them. Replace the
> > > hoses of course both ends while the system is empty. Consider van Café
> > > has a stainless steel coolant tower, downside is it still uses the
> > "130A" hose.
> > > Consider replacing the t-stat housing with the aluminum version or if
> > > you really want to go fancy the GoWesty billet housing and cover.
> ($$$).
> > >
> > > Your oil pressure is scary low. 28 psi @4,000 rpm is wear limit. You
> > > could be overheating the oil. Make sure it is not overfilled and that
> > > oil cooler is actually passing coolant.  Maybe try replacing pump. The
> > > GoWesty pump is a good choice. They measure, test the shaft and throw
> > > away the junk. The o-ring cover gasket eliminates that common leak. My
> > > 91 @266K original bottom end with oil cooler and that pump holds ~28
> > > psi at idle oil temp at 160F. At 190F ~20 psi. Fun Bus at 355K and
> > > original pump still holds ~14 psi hot idle. Both have oil cooling
> > systems.
> > >
> > > Dennis
> > >
> > >
> >
>