You can buy as few as you need from these guys for most Vanagon sizes.

If you look closely at your existing spring clamps there is a size
marked on them on the tab.

https://www.buslab.com/searchresults.asp?Search=spring+clamp&Submit=

Mark

Gabriel Hourtouat wrote:
> I saw quite a few screw style clamps as well as some spring clamps.  Are
> some of those screw clamps original?
>
> The GW stainless pipe kit came with screw clamps for the mid section.  Is
> it preferable to source spring clamps for these too?
>
> I see a variety of sizes.  Can a1.75" spring clamp be used for the 44mm,
> 45mm and 47mm connections?
>
> For reference:
> 47 mm (12 connections, including the 4 mentioned above)
> 45 mm (2 connections)
> 44 mm (2 connections)
> 40 mm (2 connections)
> 35 mm (2 connections)
> 32 mm (6 connections)
> 28 mm (1 connection)
> 24 mm (2 connections)
> 21 mm (2 connections)
> 18 mm (4 connections)
> 16 mm (1 connection)
> 15 mm (2 connections)
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 8:58 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> From Walmart the Final charge is only available in store, not online.
>> If the heater tees are plastic consider replacing them. They like to get
>> brittle and break at the worst times.
>> A right angle pick or awl will make getting the hoses loose easier. I like
>> to use a sealant on the hose ends like the aviation gasket cement. Helps
>> them slide on easier and eliminates that seepage, salt corrosion.
>> Especially on the plastic connections use the correct clamps. You need
>> thermal expansion.
>> Even the name brand thermostats vary significantly. Just has a Mahle
>> running at 211-213 according to the GoWesty EFI scan gauge. Replaced stat
>> same brand now at 197-200. This is on a GW 2.7L.
>> Yes the condenser blocks some air flow but there is more than enough
>> capacity even with the AC working. Do you ever plan to repair the AC? If
>> yes leave it in place. The longer you leave the AC inoperative the worse
>> the repairs needed can be. Consider the parallel flow condenser as an
>> upgrade. Better for cooling and AC performance.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
>> Gabriel Hourtouat
>> Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 3:31 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
>>
>> Dennis: thanks for your comments -- you can't imagine how helpful they are.
>>
>> Progress report:
>> -Got the van safely and conveniently up a bit higher; built a crude
>> creeper and slid under the van for a long calm look.  So nice to be able to
>> poke around without an agenda.
>> -Sprayed WD40 and worked the joints as recommended; spent a good while
>> just looking and planning; I think I will start with the small heater
>> connection that TEE's off of the large pipe near the T-stat housing.  I
>> will try to drain a portion of the coolant straight into buckets before
>> opening the recommended front hoses at the pipes.  I plan to open the
>> radiator vent so that I can have a steady flow out of the hose.
>> -I could not find the recommended "Final Charge" coolant online at Walmart
>> but I will find a suitable alternative.
>>
>> Question:
>> I have a non-function A/C system, including the rad/condenser.   Does the
>> A/C rad decrease the amount of cooling air that gets to the engine coolant
>> rad?
>> -if so, is there a good reason I SHOULD NOT remove the non-functioning A/C
>> rad?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> g
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:38 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> See below:
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>>> Behalf Of Gabriel Hourtouat
>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 6:59 PM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
>>>
>>> Progress update, Coolant Pipe Replacement:
>>> -setting myself up for success with my workspace is a big task, two
>>> days work.
>>>
>>> -cleaning the pipes: they are filthy with manufacturing grease and swarf.
>>> I have yet to see a set of coolant pipes with so much stuff inside
>>> that I would be concerned. Wad of paper towels and compressed air to
>>> push it through should take care of any big stuff. If you really need
>>> to clean oil or debris brake cleaner will do the trick.
>>> But how do you clean them?  A cloth on a rope?  Use the recovered
>>> coolant as the cleaning solution?  Or is there a soap or detergent
>>> which is safe to use?  How do I know the manufacturing gunk is
>> phosphate-free?
>>> Are really worried about the gunk being phosphate free or just kidding
>>> with us? Phosphate ir really only a problem if using hard nasty
>>> European tap water. Aisian cars want extra.
>>>
>>> For the ideal coolant consider the latest stuff used in Diesel trucks.
>>> "Final Charge" in the latest version is phosphate and nitrite free and
>>> can last so long that you will be out of the coolant change business.
>>> Walmart usually has this stuff on sale.
>>>
>>> -Radiator: it's not broken; but I'm tempted to change it anyways.  Bad
>>> idea?  How do I clean it or test it?  Just leave it?
>>> Besides conditional appearance the side tanks can crack internally and
>>> at some point they fail at the side tank to core connections. Take
>>> your
>>> chances1
>>>
>>> -Is there a big difference between the BEHR radiator and the other
>>> after market radiators?
>>> For the BEHR brand radiators there is the original version and now the
>>> "BEHR Service" version. The service version is made in China and it is
>>> a different core design. Round tubes with straight fins spaced close
>>> together. I have this version on Fun Bus. BAD DEAL INDEAD! It simply
>>> doesn’t have the cooling capacity. It will have to come out. Nothing
>>> like having the radiator fan run constantly even with the AC off.
>>> Using the AC on 90+ days the fan will go to high speed even at highway
>>> speeds. Of course this sucks cause besides the noise, when the
>>> radiator fan goes to high speed the AC compressor is cut off.
>>>
>>> I have installed some Spectra I think CU357. Had one leaker in he core
>>> but otherwise seem to fit and work as well as the BEHR.
>>>
>>> -Draining and capturing the coolant.  I have a big tray to catch any
>>> spills.  What's the best draining connection to open?
>>> Try as you may you will make a mess. If you really want to change it
>>> all you need to remove the plugs under the heads. Disconnecting the
>>> front hoses at the pipes lets you most of it out real fast.
>>>
>>> -Is high-spec Euro phosphate-free coolant worth the extra 20 bucks?
>>>
>>> See above about the Final Charge.
>>>
>>> Consider getting a cooling system pressure test set. You can fill the
>>> coolant in the back, pump up the system, open the bleeder on the
>>> radiator to let the air out. Close the bleeder, refill the tank in
>>> back, pressurize and bleed again. Do this 2-3 times and you can have
>>> the system bleed it enough to get it running before even starting the
>> engine.
>>>
>>> Anxious,
>>> gab
>>> 1986 WBX 2 wheel drive camper with power steering and decommissioned
>>> A/C
>>>
>>> ps -- after an oil and filter change, my oil pressure has bounced back
>>> up to 28 psi at 4000rpm.
>>> 28 psi at 4,000 rpm is still at wear limit or it is overheated. 10
>>> psi/1,000 rpm is normal.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 4:42 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Since you already have the pipes I would install them. Replace the
>>>> hoses of course both ends while the system is empty. Consider van
>>>> Café has a stainless steel coolant tower, downside is it still uses
>>>> the
>>> "130A" hose.
>>>> Consider replacing the t-stat housing with the aluminum version or
>>>> if you really want to go fancy the GoWesty billet housing and cover.
>> ($$$).
>>>>
>>>> Your oil pressure is scary low. 28 psi @4,000 rpm is wear limit. You
>>>> could be overheating the oil. Make sure it is not overfilled and
>>>> that oil cooler is actually passing coolant.  Maybe try replacing
>>>> pump. The GoWesty pump is a good choice. They measure, test the
>>>> shaft and throw away the junk. The o-ring cover gasket eliminates
>>>> that common leak. My
>>>> 91 @266K original bottom end with oil cooler and that pump holds ~28
>>>> psi at idle oil temp at 160F. At 190F ~20 psi. Fun Bus at 355K and
>>>> original pump still holds ~14 psi hot idle. Both have oil cooling
>>> systems.
>>>>
>>>> Dennis
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>