Voltage  on blue wire disconnected from alternator with key on = 3.5
volts.  Voltage at alternator engine idling - blue wire off or on - 11.5
volts.

Will go see alternator repair shop tomorrow morning.

Bruce

On Sunday, July 5, 2020, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The campers add a bit of bewilderment to the alternator activation and
> warning light circuit. Yes, that is not just there for the warning light.
> The alternator needs a little bit of activation current to get the magnetic
> field from the rotor going.
> For the campers this circuit is also used to operate the refrigerator
> relay. That is why the light remains on when the blue wire is taken off the
> alternator. To make things a bit more difficult the ground for the fridge
> relay is through the starter solenoid. Combination of disable the fridge
> during cranking and take the load off the activation circuit so that maybe
> as soon as it starts the alternator will kick in.
>
> You would hope the shop actually tested the alternator including under
> load. Check the blue wire discounted that you have close to battery voltage
> on it key on. If not that is a problem. With the engine running you can
> jump power to that terminal and see if the alternator starts. Rev it a
> little. If not you likely have a problem with the alternator.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Bruce
> Todd
> Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 8:48 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Seeing Red
>
> Okay - First off - Happy 4th of July to all of you folks south of the
> border.
>
> So I've been going hard on a number of repairs since posting about a
> vibrating alternator and discovering a broken cradle bracket.  You may
> recall I upgraded the bracket and installed an additional supporting
> bracket and then also took my alternator into a repair shop for inspection
> and service.  Put everything back together - started everything up, admired
> the belts and the stability of the new bracket -  but didn't travel
> anywhere as I immediately began working on replacing the manifold intake
> hose / boots.  This included repainting the manifold, cleaning the top of
> the block, inspecting fuel lines and installing protective sheathing over
> the fuel lines which circulate  fuel to the rails and injectors and
> replaced the fuel hose that returns fuel from the fuel ring back to the
> tank - and since I was in the neighbourhood - I also replaced the fuel
> filter.  I also renewed all the grommets on the injectors and injector
> bracket.
>
> I also changed a small coolant hose - the upper most small elbow on the
> expansion tank.  So finally got everything back together - no more leaks
> everything looking good...and went for a test drive.  Quickly discovered
> the battery indicator led is on...seeing red!  Checked the voltage - via a
> battery tester, the type you plug into a cigarette outlet and saw
> immediately the battery was not charging -  I did not check voltage at the
> alternator because I no longer have an actual volt meter...(need to buy a
> new one).  So checked the Bentley where it discusses trouble shooting
> - and so I removed the wires from the alternator and then turned the
> ignition switch to the on position and noted that the red battery indicator
> light stays on.
>
> What is the likelihood the alternator needs to go back to the repair shop?
> Seems odd but possibly something overlooked there - or could I have a
> short somewhere?
>
> Bruce - 86 Westy Syncro (2.1)
>