Thanks Dennis.  I misread your original post, interpreting it backwards.
But I have NOT changed the bulbs.  At least now I know that THAT is not the
problem, since all four light when I flip the high beam switch.  So,
ignition switch?  Headlight switch?  I think I have a spare ignition switch
(paranoid about traveling and getting stuck).  But at this point, I'm
probably going to my tech with this one.

mcneely

On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 9:13 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> If the lamps lighted with the high beam lever pulled than the ground has
> not failed. The high beam lever direct connects from the battery feed to
> the high beam circuit doing a bypass past the X contact on the ignition
> switch and the headlight switch. Depending on how things were wired this
> could also bypass the headlight relays, and the problem is there. A ground
> problem here may also be a reason that changing the bulbs made them work.
>
> Need a schematic!
>
>
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> *From:* David McNeely <davmcneely40@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 23, 2020 12:07 PM
> *To:* Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> *Subject:* Re: headlamps
>
>
>
> Dennis and others who replied to my original inquiry,  Thanks a great
> deal!  The test that Dennis suggested, flipping the bright light switch
> while the headlamp switch is on revealed that the fault is evidently a
> ground as Dennis suggested. All four lamps lit when the bright switch was
> pulled.  I'll try to fix that myself later today.
>
>
>
> Thanks again, mcneely
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 8:50 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Of the upgrades that give me pause headlight relays, high power bulbs and
> starter assist relays are amongst them. In general they add failure points
> and hide other issues.
>
> With your headlight outage the proper approach at time of failure would
> have been to get a meter or at least a test light and do some diagnostics.
> Did you loose power or the ground? Changing the bulbs you moved things and
> maybe the bad connection is now made, only to fail again.
>
> As for headlight relays yes depending on how they are wired take to load
> off the X contact on the ignition switch and take the load off the
> headlight switch but that is all. Especially with the 4 headlight systems
> the wiring to the headlights is not addressed and this especially includes
> the Ground. The headlights for both sides go back to a single quick slide
> connector to one of the start grounds above the fuse box. If you are trying
> light 4-100watt bulbs you are looking at a 40 amp load on a connector that
> had all it can do to handle the original 20 amp load. Keep in mind that
> with lamps when the voltage can’t be maintained under load the current draw
> will go up due to the filament not maintain temperature.
>
> Not only do relays not correct the ground or the wiring and connectors to
> the lamps they also do not address the complete current path from the
> alternator to the battery and then the battery to the vehicle loads.
>
> As for the high wattage bulbs, consider that for 4 lamp system you can be
> using 400 watts just for headlights, 1/2 your alternator theoretical
> capacity. If your radiator fan needs to run at the highest speed you need
> 540 watts for that. If the AC or heater fans are also on the alternator is
> now overloaded.
>
> Getting back to the possible headlight ground failure, this needs to
> inspected and corrected. Tings are crowded there and I have seen this
> failure cause an under dash fire. Also inspect the ground for the radiator
> fan. Move them to new ground points near the lamps or fan use something
> more substantial then a sheet metal screw and for the wire connectors use
> something that will also seal the wire strands from the elements.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Jeff
> Palmer
> Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2020 6:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: headlamps
>
> Yes, the Bus Depot setup. I am happy with it.
> Jeff
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 22, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Eric Caron <ericcaron96@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Jeff,
> >
> > Is this the set up from Bus Depot?
> >
> > I’m currently using that as well with the stronger bulbs.
> >
> > I’ll need to find my spares to keep in the bus once it is home.  I was
> carrying both spare high wattage and low and after your experience that
> seems like a good idea.
> >
> > Eric
> >
> >
> >> On Aug 22, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Jeff Palmer <w.jeff.palmer@ICLOUD.COM>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Strangely enough both my headlights failed on the same trip. High and
> low beams. They were the high power bulbs that I use with the relay. I put
> in the old low power bulbs and they worked. Odd.
> >>
> >> Jeff
> >> 85 Westfalia
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 22, 2020, at 12:25 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Try lifting lever for high beams. If still no go the ground probably
> failed. All 4 lights use a common quick slide connector on one of the star
> wheels above the fuse box. Easy fix is to just connect the grounds at the
> lights using a ring terminal under one of the screws holding the light
> bracket to the body.
> >>>
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> David McNeely
> >>> Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2020 12:58 AM
> >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>> Subject: headlamps
> >>>
> >>> What is the most likely reason for the headlamps on my 1991 Volkswagen
> Vanagon GL Campmobile to be kaput?  All other lamps work, headlights do
> not.  Just started this.
> >>>
> >>> Not a fuse, unless 4 bad at once, not likely.  Switch?  Is there a
> relay that can go bad?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks in advance, mcneely
> >
>
>