Thanks Dennis. I have had a few regrettable experiences with Locktite red
too. I am still figuring out how to get the nose bolt out of a diesel
crankshaft thanks to that stuff.

Jim

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 6:14 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> First you need to determine if the play is actually the inner joint being
> worn or the rack end bushings are worn. If you see the tie rod moving in
> any axial direction with out a distinctive clunk most likely the rack is
> the problem.
>
> As for replacing the ends they usually loosen without too much effort, you
> just need to break that peened over locking tab. Loosen the rack mounting
> enough to use a large adjustable wrench to secure the extended rack gear
> and then loosen the rod assembly. I tend to not trust the locking tab so I
> use red Loctite to secure the replacement. Sometimes I regret that.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Jim.
> Felder
> Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 6:06 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Refresh my memory about inner tie rods, someone!
>
> I redid every piece of my front end in 2012. But for the life of me I
> don't recall the details of the inner tie rod joints, which are going to
> need replacing pretty soon on my westy. Do they have a means of accepting
> the now-standard inner tie rod remover setups that engage a large hex end
> on the inner joint? I didn't think so. Last time I did it, the rack was in
> my vise but I want to do the job on the car. I looked at Bentley, it
> assumes the rack is removed.
>
> Any tricks to this that I am forgetting or overlooking?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>