I forgot to mention that I also upgraded to the GW aluminum
thermostat housing - along with the aluminum coolant tank.  Noticed that
the refill opening on the aluminum coolant tank with the pressure cap is a
different diameter than the stock plastic tank opening - I was thinking of
pressuring the system to bleed it and or check for leaks by using the old
cap, a hose and a pump - but that is not going to work anymore.

On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 7:16 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Gauge readings can vary a bit for a number of reasons, wiring, gauge
> voltage regulator, gauge itself, and of course the sensor tolerances. Over
> the years VW itself changed calibrations to 'ease' customer concerns over
> the normal gauge readings. Worse example was the technical service bulletin
> (TSB)  to change the oil temp sensor on some GTI and Sciroccos. It is
> important to consider the tolerance of the thermostat and that there is a
> considerable range from just opening to fully open. The gauge itself is
> damped, very slow to respond. Its main function is to alert when something
> is unusual or has failed.
>
> As part of this most of the 2.1s use a plastic thermostat housing. If you
> loose coolant or even flow the gauge becomes ineffective until things are
> so hot that steam is getting your attention. Consider upgrading to one of
> the metal housing choices. Thus heat from the head can travel to the
> housing and the single pin sensor crewed in will also get heated. This is a
> huge improvement when coolant stops due to combustion gasses in the cooling
> system. You will see the failure before the coolant gets puked out or the
> expansion tank melts. Speaking of the pressure expansion tank, consider one
> of the aluminum tank options. I prefer the GoWesty as it has a shroud
> around the level sensor. This helps avoid the sensor being satisfied from
> the coolant spray from the top hose.  You want the warning light to let you
> know when level drops, not until there is no coolant or flow at all.
>
> Having installed a few of the GoWesty EFI with their scan gauge, the
> coolant temp can be directly displayed. It is interesting to watch how
> quick the engine really warms up and the time it takes for dash gauge to
> read. As the scan gauge responds quickly you can see the temperature
> respond to load and throttle changes. Normal engines temps have ranged from
> 188F to 205 or even 207F.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Bruce
> Todd
> Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2021 8:16 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COMYou
> Subject: Re: Some thoughts Mansi Speed products.
>
> Thanks Thomas - that is helpful.  I did replace the sensor so that could
> be the issue.  Still have the old one so perhaps could reinstall it until I
> sourced one that reads a bit more ‘normal’.
>
> Still questioning the radiator thermo switch though - love to hear the fan
> come on and know where that level sits on the temp gauge when driving with
> the current newly replaced coolant temp sensor.
>
> Bruce
>
> On Tuesday, June 1, 2021, Thomas Casal <thomas.casal@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > If you had your coolant temp gauge sensor replaced that may be the
> > reason for the high reading. The new sensors aren’t calibrated right
> > so they run high even though the vanagon is running at normal
> > temperature. Per Dennis I sourced the part luckily from vw. I think
> > there were two in the entire north east and one was 45 minutes from my
> > house, the parts guy at the dealership when I called said I don’t
> > think I have it but I knew he had it cuz I already checked their
> > inventory haha. He was surprised. I paid 60$ for it but my gauge sits
> right in the middle.
> >
> > On Mon, May 31, 2021 at 11:07 PM Bruce Todd <beeceetee@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I have yet to really drive my Syncro Westy much since having the
> >> injectors and rockers installed earlier this month - also added an
> >> aluminum coolant tank and replaced the front heater core and fan -
> >> all stuff I wanted to have ldone for a few years.  Because of all the
> >> hoses and mess I elected to get the work done at my VW mechanic of
> >> choice not to mention I didn’t want to learn from my mistakes when
> >> installing the rockers.  Since getting the van back the coolant temp
> >> climbs higher than I like - going to about 75% and clearing the
> >> warning light and it seems the fan is not kicking in - so some
> >> unfinished business to have completed in the next week or so - it
> >> doesn’t go any higher than the 75% mark...but still makes me nervous
> >> enough.
> >>
> >> Anyway the point of this ramble is that last Friday evening I took
> >> the van out on a sunset cruise around Vancouver with my wife.  We
> >> drove pout to the University of British Columbia and down past the
> >> beaches.  I had a grin from ear to ear shifting through the gears and
> >> feeling and hearing a very smooth 2.1 WBX.  It was how I imagine
> >> driving the van was like when it was only a pup and not as long in
> >> the tooth.  Certainly a spring in her step - and it sounds stronger.
> >>
> >> I am very happy with results so far of this upgrade and just got to
> >> get the coolant temp calibrated and confirm if the radiator fan
> >> thermo switch is good...the fan works when I jump it - system was
> >> bled properly as far as I can determine.
> >>
> >> Bruce
> >>
> >> On Monday, May 31, 2021, Karl Mullendore <tdiguru@westyventures.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Marco knows what he's doing. The results will be proven on an
> >> > actual
> >> engine
> >> > dyno, which I know he is putting together or has already. Four-hole
> >> modern
> >> > injectors DO make a few more ponies through better atomization.
> >> > I've
> >> been
> >> > running them a couple years, before he started offering them. I'm
> >> > sure
> >> he
> >> > will
> >> > show the proof on the dyno for the ratio rockers as well. But - No
> >> > mention of his complete new, modern FI / ignition system to replace
> >> the
> >> > antiquated originals? His turbo system that has been tested and
> >> > proven,
> >> > 150 hp
> >> > as  starting point? Everything he is building is top-shelf, tested,
> >> > and worthwhile IMO. IIRC, he is/was a master tech with a Porsche
> >> > racing
> >> team.
> >> > Have you seen the dyno test videos of two of his 2.1 wbx turbo drag
> >> > race engines? :)
> >> >
> >>
> >
>