I think Doug is the one with the power window issue...  fyi...

Steven

91 Westy

On Mon, Jul 12, 2021, 6:23 AM Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>   I spent a few days last summer on the passenger side window of my '87
> Wolfsburg.  Winding the cable on the drum is quite challenging.
> If you study the diagrams in the Bentley carefully you see how the current
> for the PS window has a very long path.  There are many places where
> resistance can develop.  As I seem to recall there is a connector in the
> space behind the glove box.  Try measuring the current (amps) used by the
> two windows when powered straight from the battery; any difference may be a
> clue.  The harder a motor works, the more current it will use.  If the
> track or channels on the right side drag too much, the current draw will be
> higher.  More current means a bigger voltage drop at any spot with
> resistance.  I don't think it is possible to ground the motors at the
> doors; both wires have places to go.
>   Because of the frequent failures and difficulty in reassembly of the
> original switches, I have started to replace them with switches from old
> Subaru engine donor cars.  they are the same electrically once you figure
> out the terminals.  Good luck.
>
> Larry A.
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 5:17 PM Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Possible resistance areas are the various connectors between the switches
> > and the mechanisms.   Try pulling them apart and snapping back together
> to
> > see if there is any improvement.  Do this with all connectors.  More than
> > once.   The wiring routed from the body to the door may be getting worn
> out
> > as well.
> >
> > Steven
> >
> > 91 Westy
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 10:32 AM Douglas Toomey <drt@uoregon.edu> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I have serviced both power window motors and wheelhouses.  This
> included
> > > cleaning commutators, greasing bushings for motors.  And opening up
> > > wheelhouses, cleaning and greasing.  For one wheelhouse, I rewound the
> > > wires and found this easier if I did the following:  Wound window to
> top.
> > > There are two barrel nuts, one facing upward when cover plate is off,
> one
> > > facing downward.  Since window is up, most of the wire should be wound
> > from
> > > the bottom of wheel.  To do this, I removed the top barrel nut and then
> > > rolled the wire onto the wheel; this avoids any twists when flaking the
> > > wire on. This step seemed really important to making sure the wire lay
> > > nicely on the reel.  Then inserted spring-loaded white plastic piece
> onto
> > > wheelhouse; this piece is the one that faces upward in door, or toward
> > the
> > > wound up window bracket.  Then using the worm gear, I kept winding
> until
> > > the spring was fully compressed.  Once fully compressed, it will hold
> > > tight.  Next step is to insert the top barrel nut and then get busy
> with
> > > muscle to compress the other spring and insert spring-loaded plastic
> > piece
> > > that exits wheelhouse on side.  Without removing the top barrel nut, I
> > > always ended up with a wuzzle of wire, what I would refer to as the
> kids
> > > winding up the garden hose!
> > >
> > > Now to the issue:  Passenger side window goes up/down very nicely when
> > > jumping motor directly from battery. Success on rebuild!
> > > However, when using passenger's side switch, window raising is a bit
> > > slower.  When using driver’s side switch to raise passenger side
> window,
> > > even more slow.  I’ve measured 12.4 V from battery, 12.2V from
> passenger
> > > side switch for either activating passenger or driver side switch.  So
> a
> > > bit of a drop, presumably due to solders.  The consistent drop for
> either
> > > driver’s side or passenger’s side switch does not explain the different
> > > speeds.  Does this suggests there must be some additional resistance in
> > the
> > > circuit, i.e., that the return to ground is a problem?  Would it make
> > sense
> > > to ground the windows closer to the motor?
> > >
> > > Alternatively, it may mean time to remove the dash and get out the ohm
> > > meter.  If I go that route, seems like there is some other maintenance
> to
> > > do, for example, lube fan for blower and possibly replace heater core.
> > >
> > > Any suggestions on power window solutions or preventative maintenance
> to
> > > do while dash is removed is welcome.
> > >
> > > Doug
> > >
> > >
> > > PS, Tom Neal said that my posts are unreadable as stored on listserv.
> > > Before sending this post, making sure that my mail client (Mail on a
> mac)
> > > sends only plain text.  Let me know if this works!  Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> >
>