I removed the top cabinet (headbanger, A/C box, whatever) before the closet, following the Bentley. It will tell you which steps in which order. Read that book before you begin. 

Stephen

Mobile

> On Oct 13, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Jim. Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Eric I think that is right… the top cabinet cannot come out with the closet
> cabinet in place. So of course the closet has to come out as you describe.
> But you still can’t get to the too of the window glass,say, with the tip
> cabinet in place. I had to take all that out to remove the rear upper bunk
> when I recovered all the upper interior surfaces last fall.
> 
> It may be easier for one person to initiate the closet removal than with
> two. Sometimes it is better to know whether your last move—or your
> helper—is what is jamming things up. I say this because the more you mess
> with a tight fit the more you tend to round off or otherwise damage the
> corners and edges.
> 
> Jim
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 12, 2021 at 8:40 AM Eric Caron <ericcaron96@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Jim,
>> 
>>        I think this year I’ll be looking at just removing the rear closet
>> to do the wiring and any sound deadening I can reach from there.  I will
>> wait for any other removal until something big happens like a need to
>> remove the refrigerator.  But, all is working great back there except one
>> led and as I can’t see it anyway I can live with that for now.
>> 
>> If I’m reading this correctly it unbolts and then you move the bottom in
>> and lower the cabinet flat then rotate to slide out the back.
>> 
>> Upper cabinet and others will stay in place.
>> 
>> Now that I know how it comes out this will effect my timing of the project
>> and this info is greatly appreciated and helpful!
>> 
>> Eric Caron
>> 85 GL auto
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Oct 11, 2021, at 9:04 PM, Jim. Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I haven’t done this in a while but it doesnt take very long and isn’t all
>>> that difficult especially with help. The closet is a tight fit and if I
>>> recall, you will have to slide it over toward the center of the car, plus
>>> turn it around, so that it can be laid over and slipped out the back. No
>>> need to remove the twin-too cabinet but if you take out the panel under
>> the
>>> seat you can do that too. If you want to get behind the wall behind the
>>> double top cabinet you will have to pull out the kitchen unit. This will
>> be
>>> easy now but you will have to take all the LP gas plumbing out and take
>>> wiring loose. Just be very careful you don’t pull any wires loose and
>> mark
>>> where every single connector goes back to. And there are many by the time
>>> you get down to the water tank. But it won’t take as long as it sound
>> like
>>> it will. Reassembly is a bit harder but not too bad.
>>> 
>>> Jim
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 7:55 PM Eric Caron <ericcaron96@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hi folks,
>>>> 
>>>> I’ve never removed my rear closet. I’m planning to eventually take it
>> out
>>>> to hopefully access some of the area on the side of the van for sound
>> and
>>>> vibration material.  I also want to get behind the siding for the wire
>> for
>>>> the rear upper GW brake light.
>>>> 
>>>> Can I remove the bolts connecting the closet to the upper cabinet, side
>>>> cabinet, upper shelf and the floor then pull out to access some of that
>>>> area? Is there more to it and some problem areas?
>>>> 
>>>>       Will this allow me to access some of the side of the van?
>>>> 
>>>> I don’t plan at this time to get into any other cabinet moving but would
>>>> like to access as much as I can.
>>>> 
>>>> Is there a safe way to remove the panel over the two flip top cabinets
>> to
>>>> access some of the side panel area?
>>>> 
>>>> Tips appreciated.
>>>> 
>>>> Eric
>> 
>>