Hi Dan,

        I’m going to guess you don’t have a problem with bleeding the system.  My guess is that you have a drip someplace in the lines or radiator. 

If you have the device to pressurize the system you may find it pretty fast.  I found several small leaks that way that were fixed with a few turns on the clamps and one that turned out to be a dripping radiator. 

        Hopefully you could just find there are drips.  But, either way the device can also help with bleeding in the future.

        I was able to get much of my lost coolant back into the system before turning on the motor.

Eric Caron 

> On Mar 26, 2023, at 5:42 PM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dennis...
> 
> This comes very very handy at the right time. My daughter came back from a
> long trip and she has to top up the expansion cooling tank every couple
> hundred miles. A small cooling hose was replaced in Tucson, AZ and I think
> the shop didn't bleed it right. I will do it myself when the weather is
> better... cold, rain, snow here in Oregon.
> 
> thank you... thank you...thank you,
> 
> dan
> 
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 8:05 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Adding to the recent discussion on the future of service support for the
>> Vanagon, having to deal with the cascade of parts failures that often
>> accompanies repairs.  Imagine the impact this presents to a shop now that
>> the vehicle has to pushed off the lift and out of the way waiting for mor
>> parts.
>> 
>> Now back the technical.
>> The hardest recovery for the Vanagon cooling system is having the radiator
>> and coolant pipes emptied. This is the worst case have to bleed the system
>> enough to get anything to flow. That bypass has to opened or the hose
>> fittings opened enough for air to get out. I have even disconnected that
>> top hose and back filled the hose and coolant pipe as that bypass is not
>> really large enough to do this quickly.
>> 
>> As for method of bleeding I have post many times. The process needs to be
>> done quickly and be completed before the engine can significantly warmup.
>> 
>> 2 nd person helps.
>> Have person in rear ready to pour coolant and install cap. Screwdriver or
>> something to hold engine 1,800 to 2,000 rpm.
>> Person in front to operate bleeder. Here is the process!
>> 
>> If system empty open radiator bleeder, fill pressure tank, allow coolant
>> to flow down as much as possible. This will allow some coolant to fill
>> coolant pipes and bottom of radiator. Do not raise front! Both heater
>> valves should also be open.
>> Option, If you have the means to pressurize (test set) the system, do so.
>> You can use pressure to push the coolant up into the radiator. Close
>> bleeder, add more coolant and use pressure opening bleeder, repeat until
>> you get coolant at the bleeder. This method will do 90% of the bleeding
>> process.
>> Without the pressure fill option, start engine and immediate get revved up
>> to the 1,800 rpm or so and hold it until completely done. This is extremely
>> important as you need the pump to do the work.
>> Fill pressure tank while the front bleeder (and bypass) is open until
>> coolant comes out near bubble free.
>> Close front bleeder. Top off pressure tank and install known good pressure
>> cap. Now you can allow engine to return to idle.
>> Hopefully this is all done before the temp gauge even begins to move.
>> This should get you to the system will work. Let it run, test that both
>> heaters are getting some flow. Occasionally rev engine a bit, watch temp
>> gauge and check that you get radiator flow. During this reconnect hose to
>> recovery tank and fill.  Ensure radiator fan turn on.
>> 
>> 
>> If this does not work, then next step is to wait for it to completely cool
>> down. Do not open pressure and try to continue filling a hot engine. As the
>> coolant warms up it will quickly vaporize and trying to fill the system
>> while waiting for the thermostat to open actually effects engine the same
>> as system pressure failure while driving. The thermostat needs coolant flow
>> to operate. Without flow it and the temp sensor can only sense steam and at
>> that point the engine is being tweaked.
>> 
>> If all is well, over the next few heat-cool cycles the system will purge
>> the remaining air out and refill from the recovery tank. Monitor it as it
>> may need to be refilled. Keep in mind that fresh coolant will also have
>> some entrained air that will also purge out.
>> 
>> As for the choice of parts replacement, 85 was the last year that part was
>> used. Do you think used will be reliably better than what you have?
>> Current plastic replacement is probably from old acquired tooling with
>> questionable quality. It should work but!
>> For the aluminum one, someone invested significant time and money to
>> develop that part. If we want entrepreneurs to continue to invest in
>> supporting our vehicles we need to buy their stuff.
>> 
>> Dennis
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Eric
>> Caron
>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2023 9:02 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Blam! Bleeder valve destruction
>> 
>> Hi listers,
>> 
>> So, Still working on doing my own radiator change out.
>> 
>> New undamaged one now in the van.  This one is made in South Africa in
>> early 2020 according to the sticker.
>> 
>> I waited for a friend to help with the process of adding in coolant into
>> the reservoir.  He has done this work before.
>> 
>> Unfortunately.  He lost patients when the temp sensor didn’t open and let
>> hot coolant in and decided to open the engine bleeder
>> 
>> This is the bleeder I mentioned was stuck and I decided not to ever turn
>> it.
>> 
>> Well he did, and it would then leak and could not be made to stop leaking.
>> 
>> I have some options now.
>> 
>> First, anyone out there got a good used 1.9 bleeder set up?
>> Next, I could get a new plastic one.
>> 
>> I only check GW as the site is pretty easy for me to use, but other
>> venders might have better options.
>> There is a aluminum one there for 221 but I’d like to be a bit more budget
>> on this as I don’t expect the 1.9 set up to last more then another 10 years
>> or so.  After that electric?
>> Another option, my friend took a old 1.9 bleeder and removed the valve and
>> inspected the set up.  Two tired o rings.  He suggests we replace the o
>> rings and then exchange this one with mine.
>> 
>> That means just the piece that you open and close and not the entire
>> assembly.
>> 
>> Anyone ever try that before?
>> 
>> This spare valve he will fix is working smoothly but the O rings are hard
>> and broken, very likely like the ones in my current now leaking valve.
>> 
>> Thoughts and suggestions?
>> 
>> I know the “best thing is to upgrade everything to 2.1 but that isn’t an
>> option unless I get  a donor for the needed parts.
>> In a way I’m glad he turned the bleeder as it clearly was in bad shape and
>> even if not turned was likely to fail.  So maybe best it happened in the
>> garage.
>> 
>> Bleeder thoughts or sources appreciated.
>> 
>> Eric Caron
>> 84 Westfalia
>>