Hi Dave,

Friend reading the Bently for me said 14 PSI with a high operating of 15 PSI.

I found my system leaking and dripping at 7 PSI  

I won’t be able to test again until I replace the bleeder but nothing was dripping when engine running for a extended time.

I got my pressure unit from GW and it connects to the blue cap. Where the overflow tank hose connects.

Best,

Eric Caron 

> On Mar 26, 2023, at 6:57 PM, ddbjorkman@verizon.net wrote:
> 
> Hello Eric, Dennis, and all.
> What is the correct top pressure that one would use to find leaks.  I have a slow system leak (to broke to go see Dennis, which is always fun and instructive) that I would like to pin down, I could find other leaks just waiting to susprise me.
> 
> Dave B.
> the Boston one
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Sent: Sun, Mar 26, 2023 6:28 pm
> Subject: Re: [VANAGON] Blam! Bleeder valve destruction and some other thoughts!
> 
> Hi Dan,
> 
>         I’m going to guess you don’t have a problem with bleeding the system.  My guess is that you have a drip someplace in the lines or radiator. 
> 
> If you have the device to pressurize the system you may find it pretty fast.  I found several small leaks that way that were fixed with a few turns on the clamps and one that turned out to be a dripping radiator. 
> 
>         Hopefully you could just find there are drips.  But, either way the device can also help with bleeding in the future.
> 
>         I was able to get much of my lost coolant back into the system before turning on the motor.
> 
> Eric Caron 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Mar 26, 2023, at 5:42 PM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM <mailto:dn92610@GMAIL.COM>> wrote:
> > 
> > Thanks Dennis...
> > 
> > This comes very very handy at the right time. My daughter came back from a
> > long trip and she has to top up the expansion cooling tank every couple
> > hundred miles. A small cooling hose was replaced in Tucson, AZ and I think
> > the shop didn't bleed it right. I will do it myself when the weather is
> > better... cold, rain, snow here in Oregon.
> > 
> > thank you... thank you...thank you,
> > 
> > dan
> > 
> > On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 8:05 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com <mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>>
> > wrote:
> > 
> >> Adding to the recent discussion on the future of service support for the
> >> Vanagon, having to deal with the cascade of parts failures that often
> >> accompanies repairs.  Imagine the impact this presents to a shop now that
> >> the vehicle has to pushed off the lift and out of the way waiting for mor
> >> parts.
> >> 
> >> Now back the technical.
> >> The hardest recovery for the Vanagon cooling system is having the radiator
> >> and coolant pipes emptied. This is the worst case have to bleed the system
> >> enough to get anything to flow. That bypass has to opened or the hose
> >> fittings opened enough for air to get out. I have even disconnected that
> >> top hose and back filled the hose and coolant pipe as that bypass is not
> >> really large enough to do this quickly.
> >> 
> >> As for method of bleeding I have post many times. The process needs to be
> >> done quickly and be completed before the engine can significantly warmup.
> >> 
> >> 2 nd person helps.
> >> Have person in rear ready to pour coolant and install cap. Screwdriver or
> >> something to hold engine 1,800 to 2,000 rpm.
> >> Person in front to operate bleeder. Here is the process!
> >> 
> >> If system empty open radiator bleeder, fill pressure tank, allow coolant
> >> to flow down as much as possible. This will allow some coolant to fill
> >> coolant pipes and bottom of radiator. Do not raise front! Both heater
> >> valves should also be open.
> >> Option, If you have the means to pressurize (test set) the system, do so.
> >> You can use pressure to push the coolant up into the radiator. Close
> >> bleeder, add more coolant and use pressure opening bleeder, repeat until
> >> you get coolant at the bleeder. This method will do 90% of the bleeding
> >> process.
> >> Without the pressure fill option, start engine and immediate get revved up
> >> to the 1,800 rpm or so and hold it until completely done. This is extremely
> >> important as you need the pump to do the work.
> >> Fill pressure tank while the front bleeder (and bypass) is open until
> >> coolant comes out near bubble free.
> >> Close front bleeder. Top off pressure tank and install known good pressure
> >> cap. Now you can allow engine to return to idle.
> >> Hopefully this is all done before the temp gauge even begins to move.
> >> This should get you to the system will work. Let it run, test that both
> >> heaters are getting some flow. Occasionally rev engine a bit, watch temp
> >> gauge and check that you get radiator flow. During this reconnect hose to
> >> recovery tank and fill.  Ensure radiator fan turn on.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> If this does not work, then next step is to wait for it to completely cool
> >> down. Do not open pressure and try to continue filling a hot engine. As the
> >> coolant warms up it will quickly vaporize and trying to fill the system
> >> while waiting for the thermostat to open actually effects engine the same
> >> as system pressure failure while driving. The thermostat needs coolant flow
> >> to operate. Without flow it and the temp sensor can only sense steam and at
> >> that point the engine is being tweaked.
> >> 
> >> If all is well, over the next few heat-cool cycles the system will purge
> >> the remaining air out and refill from the recovery tank. Monitor it as it
> >> may need to be refilled. Keep in mind that fresh coolant will also have
> >> some entrained air that will also purge out.
> >> 
> >> As for the choice of parts replacement, 85 was the last year that part was
> >> used. Do you think used will be reliably better than what you have?
> >> Current plastic replacement is probably from old acquired tooling with
> >> questionable quality. It should work but!
> >> For the aluminum one, someone invested significant time and money to
> >> develop that part. If we want entrepreneurs to continue to invest in
> >> supporting our vehicles we need to buy their stuff.
> >> 
> >> Dennis
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>> On Behalf Of Eric
> >> Caron
> >> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2023 9:02 PM
> >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> >> Subject: Blam! Bleeder valve destruction
> >> 
> >> Hi listers,
> >> 
> >> So, Still working on doing my own radiator change out.
> >> 
> >> New undamaged one now in the van.  This one is made in South Africa in
> >> early 2020 according to the sticker.
> >> 
> >> I waited for a friend to help with the process of adding in coolant into
> >> the reservoir.  He has done this work before.
> >> 
> >> Unfortunately.  He lost patients when the temp sensor didn’t open and let
> >> hot coolant in and decided to open the engine bleeder
> >> 
> >> This is the bleeder I mentioned was stuck and I decided not to ever turn
> >> it.
> >> 
> >> Well he did, and it would then leak and could not be made to stop leaking.
> >> 
> >> I have some options now.
> >> 
> >> First, anyone out there got a good used 1.9 bleeder set up?
> >> Next, I could get a new plastic one.
> >> 
> >> I only check GW as the site is pretty easy for me to use, but other
> >> venders might have better options.
> >> There is a aluminum one there for 221 but I’d like to be a bit more budget
> >> on this as I don’t expect the 1.9 set up to last more then another 10 years
> >> or so.  After that electric?
> >> Another option, my friend took a old 1.9 bleeder and removed the valve and
> >> inspected the set up.  Two tired o rings.  He suggests we replace the o
> >> rings and then exchange this one with mine.
> >> 
> >> That means just the piece that you open and close and not the entire
> >> assembly.
> >> 
> >> Anyone ever try that before?
> >> 
> >> This spare valve he will fix is working smoothly but the O rings are hard
> >> and broken, very likely like the ones in my current now leaking valve.
> >> 
> >> Thoughts and suggestions?
> >> 
> >> I know the “best thing is to upgrade everything to 2.1 but that isn’t an
> >> option unless I get  a donor for the needed parts.
> >> In a way I’m glad he turned the bleeder as it clearly was in bad shape and
> >> even if not turned was likely to fail.  So maybe best it happened in the
> >> garage.
> >> 
> >> Bleeder thoughts or sources appreciated.
> >> 
> >> Eric Caron
> >> 84 Westfalia
> >>