The aluminum tanks from GW have an inspection port for viewing coolant
level.  BTW - I did order a GW aluminum tank - and it did leak - the
mechanic caught the defect when pressure testing.  A one-off defect I
suppose - the replacement has been solid.

I have had 4 plastic tanks - some lasted longer than others - 2 were
supposedly the top replacement tanks but they all ended up cracking and
leaking.  Just saw an original tank for sale on Craigslist here in
Vancouver from a 87 Vanagon.

Bruce

On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 10:04 AM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

>  Correct!  The translucent nature of plastic affords some reassurance
> about liquid inside.  The expensive Aluminum welded pressure tanks negates
> this ability.  No problem!  They don't leak!  (Connecting hoses might.)  I
> think Dennis pointed out once about the Massive size of Vanagon cooling
> system.  I mean, the size of the radiator, the size of those big hoses
> going fore and aft, the Pressure Tank, the Overflow Tank.  Lots of liquid.
> Still....you don't want nary a drop to drip or steam out.
>
>     On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 09:52:26 AM PDT, OlRivrRat <
> olrivrrat@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>          Actually, most cars since the Mid’60s have a Coolant Overflow &
> Recovery
>
> system but what makes the Vanagons Expansion Tank necessary is the lack of
>
> access to the Radiator which is where the Pressure Cap is located on most
> all
>
> other cars ~ The Vanagons Expansion Tank is really not much more that just
> a
>
> fat translucent Manifold where a Fill Point & Pressure Cap & Level Sensor
> reside
>
> & probably could very well have just been an opaque plastic or metal
> manifold
>
> as is found in some more modern cars but the Translucent Tank does provide
>
> for much better Coolant Level Sensing both Electrically & Visually ~
>
>
>
> > On 26 Mar , 2023, at 5:08 PM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> >
> > Richard... you're right on...
> >
> > I'd think this is a unique feature of the vanagon... maybe there are some
> > cars out there that have it but I don't know about it...
> >
> > For reference, my ML430 doesn't have that feature (although it's German).
> > Only one coolant reservoir, recommended to fill it HALF way to leave room
> > for expansion... Too much pressure? The coolant will be dumped on the
> > ground. I have to top it up when the coolant is too low, under their
> mark.
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 3:28 PM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> My understanding is this:  coolant gets hot.  It expands.  The coolant
> in
> >> Pressure Tank (the one with the blue cap) overflows and expels into the
> >> Overflow Tank (the one behind the license plate).  Later, stuff cools
> >> down....and magically coolant gets sucked back into Pressure Tank, and
> all
> >> is good for the next cycle of Hot/Cold.  If coolant diminishes, it is
> >> because of some leak.  These days, most likely steam from Blue Cap or
> the
> >> Tank itself.  Remedies are available.
> >>
> >> On Sunday, March 26, 2023 at 02:43:11 PM PDT, Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks Dennis...
> >>
> >> This comes very very handy at the right time. My daughter came back
> from a
> >> long trip and she has to top up the expansion cooling tank every couple
> >> hundred miles. A small cooling hose was replaced in Tucson, AZ and I
> think
> >> the shop didn't bleed it right. I will do it myself when the weather is
> >> better... cold, rain, snow here in Oregon.
> >>
> >> thank you... thank you...thank you,
> >>
> >> dan
> >>
> >> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 8:05 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Adding to the recent discussion on the future of service support for
> the
> >>> Vanagon, having to deal with the cascade of parts failures that often
> >>> accompanies repairs.  Imagine the impact this presents to a shop now
> that
> >>> the vehicle has to pushed off the lift and out of the way waiting for
> mor
> >>> parts.
> >>>
> >>> Now back the technical.
> >>> The hardest recovery for the Vanagon cooling system is having the
> >> radiator
> >>> and coolant pipes emptied. This is the worst case have to bleed the
> >> system
> >>> enough to get anything to flow. That bypass has to opened or the hose
> >>> fittings opened enough for air to get out. I have even disconnected
> that
> >>> top hose and back filled the hose and coolant pipe as that bypass is
> not
> >>> really large enough to do this quickly.
> >>>
> >>> As for method of bleeding I have post many times. The process needs to
> be
> >>> done quickly and be completed before the engine can significantly
> warmup.
> >>>
> >>> 2 nd person helps.
> >>> Have person in rear ready to pour coolant and install cap. Screwdriver
> or
> >>> something to hold engine 1,800 to 2,000 rpm.
> >>> Person in front to operate bleeder. Here is the process!
> >>>
> >>> If system empty open radiator bleeder, fill pressure tank, allow
> coolant
> >>> to flow down as much as possible. This will allow some coolant to fill
> >>> coolant pipes and bottom of radiator. Do not raise front! Both heater
> >>> valves should also be open.
> >>> Option, If you have the means to pressurize (test set) the system, do
> so.
> >>> You can use pressure to push the coolant up into the radiator. Close
> >>> bleeder, add more coolant and use pressure opening bleeder, repeat
> until
> >>> you get coolant at the bleeder. This method will do 90% of the bleeding
> >>> process.
> >>> Without the pressure fill option, start engine and immediate get revved
> >> up
> >>> to the 1,800 rpm or so and hold it until completely done. This is
> >> extremely
> >>> important as you need the pump to do the work.
> >>> Fill pressure tank while the front bleeder (and bypass) is open until
> >>> coolant comes out near bubble free.
> >>> Close front bleeder. Top off pressure tank and install known good
> >> pressure
> >>> cap. Now you can allow engine to return to idle.
> >>> Hopefully this is all done before the temp gauge even begins to move.
> >>> This should get you to the system will work. Let it run, test that both
> >>> heaters are getting some flow. Occasionally rev engine a bit, watch
> temp
> >>> gauge and check that you get radiator flow. During this reconnect hose
> to
> >>> recovery tank and fill.  Ensure radiator fan turn on.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> If this does not work, then next step is to wait for it to completely
> >> cool
> >>> down. Do not open pressure and try to continue filling a hot engine. As
> >> the
> >>> coolant warms up it will quickly vaporize and trying to fill the system
> >>> while waiting for the thermostat to open actually effects engine the
> same
> >>> as system pressure failure while driving. The thermostat needs coolant
> >> flow
> >>> to operate. Without flow it and the temp sensor can only sense steam
> and
> >> at
> >>> that point the engine is being tweaked.
> >>>
> >>> If all is well, over the next few heat-cool cycles the system will
> purge
> >>> the remaining air out and refill from the recovery tank. Monitor it as
> it
> >>> may need to be refilled. Keep in mind that fresh coolant will also have
> >>> some entrained air that will also purge out.
> >>>
> >>> As for the choice of parts replacement, 85 was the last year that part
> >> was
> >>> used. Do you think used will be reliably better than what you have?
> >>> Current plastic replacement is probably from old acquired tooling with
> >>> questionable quality. It should work but!
> >>> For the aluminum one, someone invested significant time and money to
> >>> develop that part. If we want entrepreneurs to continue to invest in
> >>> supporting our vehicles we need to buy their stuff.
> >>>
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> Eric
> >>> Caron
> >>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2023 9:02 PM
> >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>> Subject: Blam! Bleeder valve destruction
> >>>
> >>> Hi listers,
> >>>
> >>> So, Still working on doing my own radiator change out.
> >>>
> >>> New undamaged one now in the van.  This one is made in South Africa in
> >>> early 2020 according to the sticker.
> >>>
> >>> I waited for a friend to help with the process of adding in coolant
> into
> >>> the reservoir.  He has done this work before.
> >>>
> >>> Unfortunately.  He lost patients when the temp sensor didn’t open and
> let
> >>> hot coolant in and decided to open the engine bleeder
> >>>
> >>> This is the bleeder I mentioned was stuck and I decided not to ever
> turn
> >>> it.
> >>>
> >>> Well he did, and it would then leak and could not be made to stop
> >> leaking.
> >>>
> >>> I have some options now.
> >>>
> >>> First, anyone out there got a good used 1.9 bleeder set up?
> >>> Next, I could get a new plastic one.
> >>>
> >>> I only check GW as the site is pretty easy for me to use, but other
> >>> venders might have better options.
> >>> There is a aluminum one there for 221 but I’d like to be a bit more
> >> budget
> >>> on this as I don’t expect the 1.9 set up to last more then another 10
> >> years
> >>> or so.  After that electric?
> >>> Another option, my friend took a old 1.9 bleeder and removed the valve
> >> and
> >>> inspected the set up.  Two tired o rings.  He suggests we replace the o
> >>> rings and then exchange this one with mine.
> >>>
> >>> That means just the piece that you open and close and not the entire
> >>> assembly.
> >>>
> >>> Anyone ever try that before?
> >>>
> >>> This spare valve he will fix is working smoothly but the O rings are
> hard
> >>> and broken, very likely like the ones in my current now leaking valve.
> >>>
> >>> Thoughts and suggestions?
> >>>
> >>> I know the “best thing is to upgrade everything to 2.1 but that isn’t
> an
> >>> option unless I get  a donor for the needed parts.
> >>> In a way I’m glad he turned the bleeder as it clearly was in bad shape
> >> and
> >>> even if not turned was likely to fail.  So maybe best it happened in
> the
> >>> garage.
> >>>
> >>> Bleeder thoughts or sources appreciated.
> >>>
> >>> Eric Caron
> >>> 84 Westfalia
> >>>
> >>
>
>