It was on a welded seam on the left rear corner of the tank if looking at
the tank as it is situated in the engine bay from the rear of the van.  A
pinhole leak - just gently weeping like George Harrison's guitar.  No fuss
with having it returned.

Bruce

On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 11:26 AM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> I knew somebody was going to mention the GoWesty product with their gizmo
> to visualize.  So....inquiring minds want to know....where was the source
> of leak on that product?  Aside from higher cost and another point of
> failure, I went for the simple VanCafe one.  Love it.
>
> On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 11:10:33 AM PDT, Bruce Todd <
> beeceetee@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The aluminum tanks from GW have an inspection port for viewing coolant
> level.  BTW - I did order a GW aluminum tank - and it did leak - the
> mechanic caught the defect when pressure testing.  A one-off defect I
> suppose - the replacement has been solid.
>
> I have had 4 plastic tanks - some lasted longer than others - 2 were
> supposedly the top replacement tanks but they all ended up cracking and
> leaking.  Just saw an original tank for sale on Craigslist here in
> Vancouver from a 87 Vanagon.
>
> Bruce
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 10:04 AM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> >  Correct!  The translucent nature of plastic affords some reassurance
> > about liquid inside.  The expensive Aluminum welded pressure tanks
> negates
> > this ability.  No problem!  They don't leak!  (Connecting hoses might.)
> I
> > think Dennis pointed out once about the Massive size of Vanagon cooling
> > system.  I mean, the size of the radiator, the size of those big hoses
> > going fore and aft, the Pressure Tank, the Overflow Tank.  Lots of
> liquid.
> > Still....you don't want nary a drop to drip or steam out.
> >
> >    On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 09:52:26 AM PDT, OlRivrRat <
> > olrivrrat@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >          Actually, most cars since the Mid’60s have a Coolant Overflow &
> > Recovery
> >
> > system but what makes the Vanagons Expansion Tank necessary is the lack
> of
> >
> > access to the Radiator which is where the Pressure Cap is located on most
> > all
> >
> > other cars ~ The Vanagons Expansion Tank is really not much more that
> just
> > a
> >
> > fat translucent Manifold where a Fill Point & Pressure Cap & Level Sensor
> > reside
> >
> > & probably could very well have just been an opaque plastic or metal
> > manifold
> >
> > as is found in some more modern cars but the Translucent Tank does
> provide
> >
> > for much better Coolant Level Sensing both Electrically & Visually ~
> >
> >
> >
> > > On 26 Mar , 2023, at 5:08 PM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > >
> > > Richard... you're right on...
> > >
> > > I'd think this is a unique feature of the vanagon... maybe there are
> some
> > > cars out there that have it but I don't know about it...
> > >
> > > For reference, my ML430 doesn't have that feature (although it's
> German).
> > > Only one coolant reservoir, recommended to fill it HALF way to leave
> room
> > > for expansion... Too much pressure? The coolant will be dumped on the
> > > ground. I have to top it up when the coolant is too low, under their
> > mark.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 3:28 PM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net
> >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> My understanding is this:  coolant gets hot.  It expands.  The coolant
> > in
> > >> Pressure Tank (the one with the blue cap) overflows and expels into
> the
> > >> Overflow Tank (the one behind the license plate).  Later, stuff cools
> > >> down....and magically coolant gets sucked back into Pressure Tank, and
> > all
> > >> is good for the next cycle of Hot/Cold.  If coolant diminishes, it is
> > >> because of some leak.  These days, most likely steam from Blue Cap or
> > the
> > >> Tank itself.  Remedies are available.
> > >>
> > >> On Sunday, March 26, 2023 at 02:43:11 PM PDT, Dan N <
> dn92610@gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Thanks Dennis...
> > >>
> > >> This comes very very handy at the right time. My daughter came back
> > from a
> > >> long trip and she has to top up the expansion cooling tank every
> couple
> > >> hundred miles. A small cooling hose was replaced in Tucson, AZ and I
> > think
> > >> the shop didn't bleed it right. I will do it myself when the weather
> is
> > >> better... cold, rain, snow here in Oregon.
> > >>
> > >> thank you... thank you...thank you,
> > >>
> > >> dan
> > >>
> > >> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 8:05 AM Dennis Haynes <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Adding to the recent discussion on the future of service support for
> > the
> > >>> Vanagon, having to deal with the cascade of parts failures that often
> > >>> accompanies repairs.  Imagine the impact this presents to a shop now
> > that
> > >>> the vehicle has to pushed off the lift and out of the way waiting for
> > mor
> > >>> parts.
> > >>>
> > >>> Now back the technical.
> > >>> The hardest recovery for the Vanagon cooling system is having the
> > >> radiator
> > >>> and coolant pipes emptied. This is the worst case have to bleed the
> > >> system
> > >>> enough to get anything to flow. That bypass has to opened or the hose
> > >>> fittings opened enough for air to get out. I have even disconnected
> > that
> > >>> top hose and back filled the hose and coolant pipe as that bypass is
> > not
> > >>> really large enough to do this quickly.
> > >>>
> > >>> As for method of bleeding I have post many times. The process needs
> to
> > be
> > >>> done quickly and be completed before the engine can significantly
> > warmup.
> > >>>
> > >>> 2 nd person helps.
> > >>> Have person in rear ready to pour coolant and install cap.
> Screwdriver
> > or
> > >>> something to hold engine 1,800 to 2,000 rpm.
> > >>> Person in front to operate bleeder. Here is the process!
> > >>>
> > >>> If system empty open radiator bleeder, fill pressure tank, allow
> > coolant
> > >>> to flow down as much as possible. This will allow some coolant to
> fill
> > >>> coolant pipes and bottom of radiator. Do not raise front! Both heater
> > >>> valves should also be open.
> > >>> Option, If you have the means to pressurize (test set) the system, do
> > so.
> > >>> You can use pressure to push the coolant up into the radiator. Close
> > >>> bleeder, add more coolant and use pressure opening bleeder, repeat
> > until
> > >>> you get coolant at the bleeder. This method will do 90% of the
> bleeding
> > >>> process.
> > >>> Without the pressure fill option, start engine and immediate get
> revved
> > >> up
> > >>> to the 1,800 rpm or so and hold it until completely done. This is
> > >> extremely
> > >>> important as you need the pump to do the work.
> > >>> Fill pressure tank while the front bleeder (and bypass) is open until
> > >>> coolant comes out near bubble free.
> > >>> Close front bleeder. Top off pressure tank and install known good
> > >> pressure
> > >>> cap. Now you can allow engine to return to idle.
> > >>> Hopefully this is all done before the temp gauge even begins to move.
> > >>> This should get you to the system will work. Let it run, test that
> both
> > >>> heaters are getting some flow. Occasionally rev engine a bit, watch
> > temp
> > >>> gauge and check that you get radiator flow. During this reconnect
> hose
> > to
> > >>> recovery tank and fill.  Ensure radiator fan turn on.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> If this does not work, then next step is to wait for it to completely
> > >> cool
> > >>> down. Do not open pressure and try to continue filling a hot engine.
> As
> > >> the
> > >>> coolant warms up it will quickly vaporize and trying to fill the
> system
> > >>> while waiting for the thermostat to open actually effects engine the
> > same
> > >>> as system pressure failure while driving. The thermostat needs
> coolant
> > >> flow
> > >>> to operate. Without flow it and the temp sensor can only sense steam
> > and
> > >> at
> > >>> that point the engine is being tweaked.
> > >>>
> > >>> If all is well, over the next few heat-cool cycles the system will
> > purge
> > >>> the remaining air out and refill from the recovery tank. Monitor it
> as
> > it
> > >>> may need to be refilled. Keep in mind that fresh coolant will also
> have
> > >>> some entrained air that will also purge out.
> > >>>
> > >>> As for the choice of parts replacement, 85 was the last year that
> part
> > >> was
> > >>> used. Do you think used will be reliably better than what you have?
> > >>> Current plastic replacement is probably from old acquired tooling
> with
> > >>> questionable quality. It should work but!
> > >>> For the aluminum one, someone invested significant time and money to
> > >>> develop that part. If we want entrepreneurs to continue to invest in
> > >>> supporting our vehicles we need to buy their stuff.
> > >>>
> > >>> Dennis
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
> > Eric
> > >>> Caron
> > >>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2023 9:02 PM
> > >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > >>> Subject: Blam! Bleeder valve destruction
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi listers,
> > >>>
> > >>> So, Still working on doing my own radiator change out.
> > >>>
> > >>> New undamaged one now in the van.  This one is made in South Africa
> in
> > >>> early 2020 according to the sticker.
> > >>>
> > >>> I waited for a friend to help with the process of adding in coolant
> > into
> > >>> the reservoir.  He has done this work before.
> > >>>
> > >>> Unfortunately.  He lost patients when the temp sensor didn’t open and
> > let
> > >>> hot coolant in and decided to open the engine bleeder
> > >>>
> > >>> This is the bleeder I mentioned was stuck and I decided not to ever
> > turn
> > >>> it.
> > >>>
> > >>> Well he did, and it would then leak and could not be made to stop
> > >> leaking.
> > >>>
> > >>> I have some options now.
> > >>>
> > >>> First, anyone out there got a good used 1.9 bleeder set up?
> > >>> Next, I could get a new plastic one.
> > >>>
> > >>> I only check GW as the site is pretty easy for me to use, but other
> > >>> venders might have better options.
> > >>> There is a aluminum one there for 221 but I’d like to be a bit more
> > >> budget
> > >>> on this as I don’t expect the 1.9 set up to last more then another 10
> > >> years
> > >>> or so.  After that electric?
> > >>> Another option, my friend took a old 1.9 bleeder and removed the
> valve
> > >> and
> > >>> inspected the set up.  Two tired o rings.  He suggests we replace
> the o
> > >>> rings and then exchange this one with mine.
> > >>>
> > >>> That means just the piece that you open and close and not the entire
> > >>> assembly.
> > >>>
> > >>> Anyone ever try that before?
> > >>>
> > >>> This spare valve he will fix is working smoothly but the O rings are
> > hard
> > >>> and broken, very likely like the ones in my current now leaking
> valve.
> > >>>
> > >>> Thoughts and suggestions?
> > >>>
> > >>> I know the “best thing is to upgrade everything to 2.1 but that isn’t
> > an
> > >>> option unless I get  a donor for the needed parts.
> > >>> In a way I’m glad he turned the bleeder as it clearly was in bad
> shape
> > >> and
> > >>> even if not turned was likely to fail.  So maybe best it happened in
> > the
> > >>> garage.
> > >>>
> > >>> Bleeder thoughts or sources appreciated.
> > >>>
> > >>> Eric Caron
> > >>> 84 Westfalia
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> >
>